Wednesday, November 01, 2006

November 1, 2006
Brioni wool (90%)/cashmere (10) sportscoat
Malo cashmere (50%)/silk(25%)/nylon(15%)/cotton(10%) sweater
Luciano Barbera wool pant
Brioni belt
Pantherella wool socks
David Eden ostrich-leg bluchers

No comments:

Frequently Asked Questions

Why haven't you been updating your blog?

Thanks for asking. If the Lord's willing and the creek don't rise, I'll try to get back to posting again on a regular basis. And I still remain determined to get back to posting.

Is teasing okay on the internet?

Teasing can often be a form of bonding. Among friends, it may be a type of intimacy that affirms shared values. Perhaps, with strangers, it serves as an icebreaker. But, remember that there is the occasional sourpuss who is too uptight to be teased.

Why can't guys learn to fight for friendship?

To paraphrase a NYT article from 10-26-2012: At past 40, Joe (or Jeff or Jim) and my friendship ended. There was no dramatic blowup on my part: it just evaporated. It seems I hurt or disappointed or pissed-off or annoyed or let down Joe or Jeff or Jim down in some way, and he decided to cancel the friendship rather than to confront me. Joe and I haven’t spoken in years, but for a cool encounter or two. I understand.

From the NYT article:
I would love to say that I am psyching myself up to stop caring about what is expected of me and sit down and hash things out with [Joe or Jeff or Jim]. I would be lying, though.Imagine it. I’d have to call (and that’s already a nonstarter because then I’d be using a phone) but imagine anyway: I call [Joe or Jeff or Jim] and say: “I feel sad that we had a falling out. I care about you. I would like us to be friends. What did I do wrong? Come on, yell at me. I can take it.” Not happening. ... I care about him too much to fight with him. So no, I’ll never reach out to him and say all that stuff.

How do mirror neurons in our brains influence our clothing choices?

Clothing choices of our peers can be contagious behavior. Mirror neurons (found in the brain segment responsible for aping, imitation, learning and empathy) make one subconsciously mimic others behavior--thus promoting bonding, cooperation and bland, milquetoast clothing.

What should one do when angry at another person?

Elizabeth Bernstein (WSJ 4-19-2011) suggests that: Determine why one's angry. What expectations weren't met? What didn't happen that one wanted to happen ? Here's three suggestion for confronting others:

1) Inform them why one is so upset.

2) Determine why they acted the way they did.

3) Clarify what they need to change for the future.

How does “The Corner Office: Indispensable and Unexpected Lessons From CEOs on How to Lead and Succeed,” by Adam Bryant, apply to clothing style?

Five qualities as applied to clothing style:

1) Passionate Curiosity--It's one's relentless questioning that spots new and different clothing opportunities, and understanding how these new or different clothing choices works for one. There’s a style energy in passionate curiosity about clothing.

2) Battle-Hardened Confidence--One's willingness to deal with diversity and adversity in style choices. Some embrace choice, adversity and diversity and don't look back. Self-confidence in one's unique style is a must.

3)Team Smarts--It's working on a team, being a team player and embracing style obscurity. It's having team smarts and artificial vanilla style. After all, why not sturdy and well-made clothing that look, in conclusion, like nothing special.

4) A Simple Mind-Set--It's having style choices that are concise, makes one's point, makes style simple and unique.

5) Fearlessness--Is one's style comfort zone being uncomfortable with conventional wisdom and group-thinking? What about clothing situations without familiar clothing paradigms, maps or compasses? Is it okay for one to resist the conventional wisdom and and go against the group-thinking in clothing styles? Can one make surprising clothing choices and thus enhance one's style? Can one let discomfort with group-thinking be in fact one's clothing comfort zone? That is to say, is one's style truly fearless?

What is the best shaving brush?

I've found the Silver Tip Badger one's to be the best.

Goyishe Kopf , which is more important in developing and presenting one's style: reason or emotion?

According to David Brooks (NYT 03-08-2011, p. A27):

"research illuminates a range of deeper talents, which span reason and emotion and make a hash of both categories:

Attunement: the ability to enter other minds and learn what they have to offer.

Equipoise: the ability to serenely monitor the movements of one’s own mind and correct for biases and shortcomings.

Metis: the ability to see patterns in the world and derive a gist from complex situations.

Sympathy: the ability to fall into a rhythm with those around you and thrive in groups.

Limerence: This isn’t a talent as much as a motivation. The conscious mind hungers for money and success, but the unconscious mind hungers for those moments of transcendence when the skull line falls away and we are lost in love for another, the challenge of a task or the love of God. Some people seem to experience this drive more powerfully than others."

"This body of research suggests the French enlightenment view of human nature, which emphasized individualism and reason, was wrong. The British enlightenment, which emphasized social sentiments, was more accurate about who we are. It suggests we are not divided creatures. We don’t only progress as reason dominates the passions. We also thrive as we educate our emotions."

"First, the unconscious parts of the mind are most of the mind, where many of the most impressive feats of thinking take place. Second, emotion is not opposed to reason; our emotions assign value to things and are the basis of reason. Finally, we are not individuals who form relationships. We are social animals, deeply interpenetrated with one another, who emerge out of relationships."

What exactly does the above say about tendency to become bored with style and dress?

The research seems to suggest that Attunement, Sympathy, and Limerence emphasize relationships among people. Thus, to the extent that dress style distances us from others we hold important, it loses centrality and importance over time as passions and emotions for group social sentiments supersede it. This is because it is in fact our emotions which give value to dress style and so underlines and produces our reasons for becoming bored with mere clothing concerns. Individual dress style conflicts with people being social animals who are profoundly intertwined with each other resulting from emotional needs for relationships. To the extent that Equipoise and Metis allow one to see value in individual dress style, then the strong emotional and social pressures that put dress style in the category of boring would be to some extent mitigated. However, most individuals will in fact yield over time to social pressures that must tax or even obliterate their interest individual style, independent of whatever so-call rational reason they present to others. It would seem that emotions and passions generated by social pressures most always trump individual style.

How does one best match and blend the pocket-square with the rest of the outfit?

Pick a great pocket-square (regardless of color) and it'll enrich and create interest for any outfit. Don't over-think it.

Isn’t is best to avoid a lame-ass potpourri of ugly clothing styles and have the integrity to try to emulate traditional men’s style?

Some traditionalists view clothing choices as a clash between merciless opponents of wardrobe styles. Thus maximum unity in style is sought. Psychologically, they are apt to rate high allegiance and shared aims. They want a state of affairs with idealistic ranks clearly drawn and style mandates bluntly enforced. Others are non-traditionalists who see a diversity of clothing styles--that style is a multifaceted jockeying of thoughts and interests. They are contented with weak ties to clothing traditions; they are relaxed with a diversity of approaches to style. It’s a distinction between diverse perspectives of how clothing choices are applied and thus individual style achieved. Traditionalists move toward safe clothing, have a meager sense for the wider style choices and labor from the perspective of style being a conflict of all against all. The consequences are unsurprising: narrow-mindedness, estrangement and feeling overwhelm. Non-traditionalists avoid musty categories. One doesn’t have to dump one’s principles to have a variety of clothing choices. One must recognize that there are other inhabitants in the style world. The traditionalist commentariat are fuming and sense the diminishing of their style and are crying in protest. They have self-confidence and false pride about their clothing choices together with a inferiority complex about how others view them. They perceive disquiet and bewilderment all around. Traditionalists seems to be most identifiable by what they are oppose to, than what they support and actually wear. However did anyone imagine varying the style choices was going to be trouble-free?

Why does everyone wear black in New York City?

Because it's the cool, hipster thing who are edgy and sophisticated--so they think. The only solace is that during the summer the lack of wide-spread air conditioning means the women tend to be under-clothed wearing sheer, brief, skimpy, thin, skin-baring outfits (while riding bicycles). Enough said.

What do you think of Luca Rubinacci's sartorial splendor?

Different strokes for different folks.

When should one cuff one's pants.

Always, sometimes, never. Many people prefer flat-front pants not to have cuffs, just pleated-pants for cuffs. I personally prefer cuffs on both flat and pleated front pants, but my wife prefers no cuffs, so I often let her decide.

How bothered are you by clothing that is starting to show wear and use?

The patina of age on clothing is more than okay. Age provides character and personality to one's clothing. Vintage clothing should be a part of everyone's wardrobe.

I have a five year old pair of nice shoes that I've worn regularly and are well maintained. They've developed small cracks in the leather. I'm bereft, what should I do?

Duh.

Why aren't there more size 34S suits and blazers?

Duh.

No ready to wear shoes fit me properly. What should I do?

Duh.

I brought some nice Allen Edmond and the stitching is wavy and crooked. What should I do?

Duh.

I really, really--did I say really--hate Italian brands Gucci, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Kiton, Brioni, Loro Piana, Zegna, etc. What should I do?

Duh.

It's raining outside today. What kind of shoes should I wear?

Duh.

Everyone else I see dresses like slobs. What should I do?

Duh.

I've worn these pants for several years now and the seat and other places have turned shiny. What should i do?

Duh.

Your garbage of a blog is the worst waste of time on the web. You don't know how to dress and you've wasted your substance on riotous clothing buying. Everyone I know dresses better than you. What are you going to do about it?

Duh.

Ready to wear suits and blazers don't fit me. What should do?

Duh.

I'm bored with clothing? What should I do?

Duh?

Why don't they make more heavy wool suits and blazers? What should I do?

Duh.

My new shoes are creasing. What should I do about it?

Duh.

How do I know if a shoe fits me?

Duh.

My linen clothes wrinkle? What can I do about it?

Duh.

Why are quality shoes so expensive and hard to find?

Duh.

Why would anybody buy fine quality light-weight wool and cashmere suits and blazers?

Duh.

I don't like French cuffs. I don't like pocket-squares. I don't like ticket pockets. I don't like cuffed pants. I don't like monkstrap shoes. I don't like tassel loafers. What can I do?

Duh.

I really like this suit. Should I get it?

Duh.

Are high quality clothes and shoes fragile and delicate?

Duh.

I totally dislike Creed colognes. What must I do?

Duh.

What does one do when the style forum mean girls don't like one?

Duh.

How important is clothing to you?

New International Version (©1984)
"And why do you worry about clothes? See how the lilies of the field grow. They do not labor or spin.

New Living Translation (©2007)
"And why worry about your clothing? Look at the lilies of the field and how they grow. They don't work or make their clothing,

English Standard Version (©2001)
And why are you anxious about clothing? Consider the lilies of the field, how they grow: they neither toil nor spin,

New American Standard Bible (©1995)
"And why are you worried about clothing? Observe how the lilies of the field grow; they do not toil nor do they spin,

International Standard Version (©2008)
And why do you worry about clothes? Consider the lilies in the field and how they grow. They don't work or spin yarn,

GOD'S WORD® Translation (©1995)
"And why worry about clothes? Notice how the flowers grow in the field. They never work or spin yarn for clothes.

King James Bible
And why take ye thought for raiment? Consider the lilies of the field, how they grow; they toil not, neither do they spin:

American King James Version
And why take you thought for raiment? Consider the lilies of the field, how they grow; they toil not, neither do they spin:

American Standard Version
And why are ye anxious concerning raiment? Consider the lilies of the field, how they grow; they toil not, neither do they spin:

Bible in Basic English
And why are you troubled about clothing? See the flowers of the field, how they come up; they do no work, they make no thread:

Douay-Rheims Bible
And for raiment why are you solicitous? Consider the lilies of the field, how they grow: they labour not, neither do they spin.

Darby Bible Translation
And why are ye careful about clothing? Observe with attention the lilies of the field, how they grow: they toil not, neither do they spin;

English Revised Version
And why are ye anxious concerning raiment? Consider the lilies of the field, how they grow; they toil not, neither do they spin:

Webster's Bible Translation
And why are ye anxious for raiment? Consider the lilies of the field how they grow? they toil not, neither do they spin?

Weymouth New Testament
And why be anxious about clothing? Learn a lesson from the wild lilies. Watch their growth. They neither toil nor spin,

World English Bible
Why are you anxious about clothing? Consider the lilies of the field, how they grow. They don't toil, neither do they spin,

Young's Literal Translation
and about clothing why are ye anxious? consider well the lilies of the field; how do they grow? they do not labour, nor do they spin;

Can one have too many clothes?

Conventional wisdom is that one should not have too many clothes.

Luciano Barbera declares: “It is not enough to have beautiful clothes. Lots of people have beautiful clothes. In fact some, people have too many. What is important is what you do with them.” He also said: "I know I have said you can have too many clothes. But I take that back where shirts are concerned. The shirt is a triumph of modern life, like the automobile or the web. It is easy to put on and take off, quick to wash and easy to store. Plus, shirts look great. A man should own as many shirts as he wishes - the more the better. I personally have so many shirts that I sometimes walk into my closet, pull one out, and think to myself, 'Now where did that come from?' Having lots of shirts will allow you to surprise yourself with your own good taste."

How should one respond to criticisms laced with snark, snideness, rudeness, fifth-grade humor, player-hate, etc.?

Hollaback Girl
Songwriters: Stefani, Gwen Renee; Williams, Pharrell;

Uh huh, this my shit
All the girls stomp your feet like this

A few times I've been around that track
So it's not just gonna happen like that
'Cause I ain't no Hollaback Girl
I ain't no Hollaback Girl

A few times I've been around that track
So it's not just gonna happen like that
'Cause I ain't no Hollaback Girl
I ain't no Hollaback Girl

Ooh, this my shit, this my shit
Ooh, this my shit, this my shit
Ooh, this my shit, this my shit
Ooh, this my shit, this my shit

I heard that you were talking shit
And you didn't think that I would hear it
People hear you talking like that, getting everybody fired up
So I'm ready to attack, gonna lead the pack
Gonna get a touchdown, gonna take you out
That's right, put your pom-poms down, getting everybody fired up

A few times I've been around that track
So it's not just gonna happen like that
'Cause I ain't no Hollaback Girl
I ain't no Hollaback Girl

A few times I've been around that track
So it's not just gonna happen like that
'Cause I ain't no Hollaback Girl
I ain't no Hollaback Girl

Ooh, this my shit, this my shit
Ooh, this my shit, this my shit
Ooh, this my shit, this my shit
Ooh, this my shit, this my shit

So that's right dude, meet me at the bleachers
No principals, no student-teachers
All the boys want to be the winner, but there can only be one
So I'm gonna fight, gonna give it my all
Gonna make you fall, gonna sock it to you
That's right, I'm the last one standing, another one bites the dust

A few times I've been around that track
So it's not just gonna happen like that
'Cause I ain't no Hollaback Girl
I ain't no Hollaback Girl

A few times I've been around that track
So it's not just gonna happen like that
'Cause I ain't no Hollaback Girl
I ain't no Hollaback Girl

Ooh, this my shit, this my shit
Ooh, this my shit, this my shit
Ooh, this my shit, this my shit
Ooh, this my shit, this my shit

Let me hear you say, this shit is bananas
B A N A N A S
This shit is bananas
B A N A N A S
Again, the shit is bananas
B A N A N A S
This shit is bananas
B A N A N A S

Few times I've been around that track
So it's not just gonna happen like that
'Cause I ain't no Hollaback Girl
I ain't no Hollaback Girl

A few times I've been around that track
So it's not just gonna happen like that
'Cause I ain't no Hollaback Girl
I ain't no Hollaback Girl

Ooh, this my shit, this my shit
Ooh, this my shit, this my shit
Ooh, this my shit, this my shit
Ooh, this my shit, this my shit

© HARAJUKU LOVER MUSIC; EMI BLACKWOOD MUSIC INC.; WATERS OF NAZARETH

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXooLQBN3F4

http://www.vevo.com/watch/gwen-stefani/hollaback-girl/USUV70703449

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

Who is the best dressed man?

Women are watched; men are seen. As Albert Camus wrote women are all we can know of earthly paradise. If you doubt this, then try and a take look at one of the best dressed men--Robert Palmer(RIP)--of recent times as opposed to the women surrounding him:

Addicted To Love

Your lights are on, but you're not home
Your mind is not your own
Your heart sweats, your body shakes
Another kiss is what it takes

You can't sleep, you can't eat
There's no doubt, you're in deep
Your throat is tight, you can't breathe
Another kiss is all you need

Ohh oohh
you like to think that you're immune to the stuff...o yeh
It's closer to the truth to say you can't get enough
you know you're gonna have to face it
you're addicted to love

You see the signs, but you can't read
You're runnin' at a different speed
You heart beats in double time
Another kiss and you'll be mine, a one track mind

You can't be saved
Oh baby, young love is all you crave
If there's some left for you
You don't mind if you do

Ohh oohh
You like to think that you're immune to the stuff
It's closer to the truth to say you can't get enough,
you know you're gonna have to face it
you're addicted to love

Might as well face it, you're addicted to love(5x)

Your lights are on, but you're not home
Your will is not your own
You're heart sweats and teeth grind
Another kiss and you'll be mine

Ohh oohh
you like to think that you're immune to the stuff
It's closer to the truth to say you can't get enough
you know you're gonna have to face it
you're addicted to love

Might as well face it, you're addicted to love(8x)

Your lights are on, but you're not home
Your mind is not your own
Your heart sweats, your body shakes
Another kiss is what it takes
You can't sleep, you can't eat
There's no doubt, you're in deep
Your throat is tight, you can't breathe
Another kiss is all you need
Whoa, you like to think that you're immune to the stuff, oh yeah
It's closer to the truth to say you can't get enough
You know you're gonna have to face it, you're addicted to love
You see the signs, but you can't read
You're runnin' at a different speed
Your heart beats in double time
Another kiss and you'll be mine, a one track mind
You can't be saved
Oblivion is all you crave
If there's some left for you
You don't mind if you do
Whoa, you like to think that you're immune to the stuff, oh yeah
It's closer to the truth to say you can't get enough
You know you're gonna have to face it, you're addicted to love
Might as well face it, you're addicted to love
Might as well face it, you're addicted to love
Might as well face it, you're addicted to love
Might as well face it, you're addicted to love
Might as well face it, you're addicted to love

Your lights are on, but you're not home
Your will is not your own
You're heart sweats, your teeth grind
Another kiss and you'll be mine
Whoa, you like to think that you're immune to the stuff, oh yeah
It's closer to the truth to say you can't get enough
You know you're gonna have to face it, you're addicted to love
Might as well face it, you're addicted to love
Might as well face it, you're addicted to love
Might as well face it, you're addicted to love
Might as well face it, you're addicted to love
Might as well face it, you're addicted to love
Might as well face it, you're addicted to love
Might as well face it, you're addicted to love
Might as well face it, you're addicted to love
Might as well face it, you're addicted to love

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

http://www.vevo.com/watch/robert-palmer/addicted-to-love/USUV70602523

Which of two shoes, pants, ties, suits, coats, etc. should one get?

Both.

What is the best pair of shoes for under $150? pants under $50? suit under $200? etc.?

Try Costco, outlet malls, Filenes Basement, K&G, H&M, Forever, etc.

Isn't bespoke clothing best? Isn't it like many of the important and finer things in life--it often takes a refinement of one's own sensibilities to make it truly and well worthwhile. While it doesn't mean one has to learn to like such things, isn't it a good reason not to dismiss them arbitrarily? Don't you even realize the major shortcomings of off-the-rack in the first place. Aren't certain elements of fit that go under-emphasized in off-the-rack due the fact that their uncontrolled for in production or easily fixed to by alterations, including: front/back balance, collar fit, sleeve shape, curvature and pitch, shaping in the chest/waist area, etc. Doesn't off-the-rack train the hoi polloi to accept the limitations of mass production and marketability. Bespoke diverges from the expectations and standards of off-the-rack, and one has to learn to like bespoke. You simply don't understand bespoke's unique conditions. Unless you appreciate, and accept unequivocally, bespoke's unique natural conditions you betray yourself as lacking insight into and empathy with the mysteries of bespoke's tortured history and complex present realities.

This common refrain is still chimed with certainty and stridency when addressing bespoke nonbelievers. This kind of rhetoric allows for a form of bespoke exceptionalism. Bespoke advocates employ it whether they are rejecting well-intentioned observations on bespoke mores or staring down the incredulity of outsiders confronted by egregious bespoke clothing choices. Not only can the criticism of bespoke outsiders be deflected in this way, even those with intimate ties to bespoke are frequently derided for failing to fully appreciate bespoke's superiority and nuances. Tastes like mileage varies. Off-the-rack has unexpected style and design, rather than depending on my one's limited design sensibility and the tailor's design sediment and range, which may produce a high quality, but uninteresting garment. Nevertheless, not everyone is looking for something unexpected found in fine clothing design. In the bespoke world in which clan ties and narrow loyalties are paramount, the nonbelievers are frequently derided for being Devils, tainted by the untoward manners and ideas of ready-to-wear styles and climes. To be an advocate of bespoke, there is an all-too-often expectation that one understands the overt rules and invented traditions as well as the unspoken codes of bespoke. Intuitively one is supposed to understand and be vigilant about bespoke's particular situation and conditions. Bespoke also includes nebulous claims that there is a singular bespoke way of doing things, that bespoke followers have a unique purchase on the world of the clothing, and that only bespoke can really understand it. Bespoke authorities claim a monopoly right to define and interpret clothing's unique conditions of superiority. In reality, social change, evolving attitudes and widespread aspirations toward clothing styles continue to challenge bespoke's monopoly on defining proper clothing.

What is a man's best accessory?

Being the accessory at the arm of an attractive women. Run-D.M.C. via Aerosmith may have explained better:

Walk This Way

Yo there's a Backseat lover thats always Under cover
"Gonna talk to you" my daddy say
Said "You ain't seen nothin' till you're down on a muffin
Then you're sure to be a changin' your ways"
I met a cheerleader
Was a real young bleeder
All the times I could reminisce
'Cause the best things in lovin' with her sister and her cousin
And started with a little kiss like this!
Seesaw swingin' with the boys in the school
And your feet flyin' up in the air
I sing "Hey diddle diddle"
Put your kitty in the middle of the swing
Like you just don't care
So I took a big chance at the high school dance
With a lady who was ready to play
Wasn't me she was foolin'
'Cause she knew what she was doin'
And I know'd love was here to stay
When she told me to
CHORUS
Walk this way, talk this way, walk this way, talk this way,
(She told me to) walk this way, talk this way, walk this way,
talk this way
Uh, just gimme a kiss!
Like this.
School girl sleezy with a classy kinda sassy
Little skirt's hangin way up her knee,
There was three young ladies in the school gym locker
And I find they were looking a D.
I was a high school loser, never made it with the ladies
Till the boys told me somethin' I missed,
Then my next door neighbor had a daughter had a favor
So I gave her just a little kiss alike this
Seesaw swingin' with the boys in the school
And your feet flyin' up in the air,
I sing "Hey diddle diddle"
Put your kitty in the middle of the swing
Like you just don't care.
So I took a big chance at the high school dance
With a missy who was ready to play,
Wasn't me she was foolin'
'Cause she knew what she was doin'
When she told me how to walk this way.
She told me to
Walk this way, talk this way, walk this way, talk this way,
(She told me to) walk this way, talk this way, walk this way,
talk this way
Ah just gimmie some head.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4B_UYYPb-Gk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hw9srLKpQpc

http://www.vevo.com/watch/run-dmc/walk-this-way/USAV78600151

http://youtu.be/_ZIkzowaATs

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

How best to match belt and shoe; tie and suit; etc.?

Do contrasting colors, and avoid matchy-matchy.

Where can one get bullet-proof shoes?

Dr. Martens.

Where can one get a bullet-proof suit?

Take a time machine back to 1980 Sears Roebucks and buy a Johnny Carson double-knit polyester suit.

Aren't fine quality shoes and clothes delicate?

Yes.

Should one do as Ralph Lauren (nee Lifshitz) and dress British and think Yiddish; or should one do like Hank Greenberg (formerly of AIG) and dress Yiddish and think British?

I'm thinking …...

What should one do when other men dress at work, restaurants, parties, meetings, etc. in horrid and beastly ways?

Since all I know is that women are watched and men are seen, I've never personally observed this. Nevertheless, should not one be a role model of how to be properly accoutremented so the great unwashed can be inspired. Some charmed people have the time and energy to love nothing more than being offended. In fact some expend a substantial amount time hoping for the opportunity to be offended. They take pride in maintaining a low barrier to being offended so as they can readily judge and rank others--missing a chance to be offended would be a tragedy.

How and where does one get the money to buy fine clothing?

New International Version (©1984)
For the love of money is a root of all kinds of evil. Some people, eager for money, have wandered from the faith and pierced themselves with many griefs.

New Living Translation (©2007)
For the love of money is the root of all kinds of evil. And some people, craving money, have wandered from the true faith and pierced themselves with many sorrows.

English Standard Version (©2001)
For the love of money is a root of all kinds of evils. It is through this craving that some have wandered away from the faith and pierced themselves with many pangs.

New American Standard Bible (©1995)
For the love of money is a root of all sorts of evil, and some by longing for it have wandered away from the faith and pierced themselves with many griefs.

International Standard Version (©2008)
For the love of money is a root of all kinds of evil. Some people, in their eagerness to get rich, have wandered away from the faith and caused themselves a lot of pain.

GOD'S WORD® Translation (©1995)
Certainly, the love of money is the root of all kinds of evil. Some people who have set their hearts on getting rich have wandered away from the Christian faith and have caused themselves a lot of grief.

King James Bible
For the love of money is the root of all evil: which while some coveted after, they have erred from the faith, and pierced themselves through with many sorrows.

American King James Version
For the love of money is the root of all evil: which while some coveted after, they have erred from the faith, and pierced themselves through with many sorrows.

American Standard Version
For the love of money is a root of all kinds of evil: which some reaching after have been led astray from the faith, and have pierced themselves through with many sorrows.

Bible in Basic English
For the love of money is a root of all evil: and some whose hearts were fixed on it have been turned away from the faith, and been wounded with unnumbered sorrows.

Douay-Rheims Bible
For the desire of money is the root of all evils; which some coveting have erred from the faith, and have entangled themselves in many sorrows.

Darby Bible Translation
For the love of money is the root of every evil; which some having aspired after, have wandered from the faith, and pierced themselves with many sorrows.

English Revised Version
For the love of money is a root of all kinds of evil: which some reaching after have been led astray from the faith, and have pierced themselves through with many sorrows.

Webster's Bible Translation
For the love of money is the root of all evil: which while some have coveted, they have erred from the faith, and pierced themselves through with many sorrows.

Weymouth New Testament
For from love of money all sorts of evils arise; and some have so hankered after money as to be led astray from the faith and be pierced through with countless sorrows.

World English Bible
For the love of money is a root of all kinds of evil. Some have been led astray from the faith in their greed, and have pierced themselves through with many sorrows.

Young's Literal Translation
for a root of all the evils is the love of money, which certain longing for did go astray from the faith, and themselves did pierce through with many sorrows;

Bitch Gwen Stefani stole Tevye the dairyman song:
Rich Girl

If I was a Rich Girl
Na
See, I'd have all the money in the world, if I was a wealthy girl
No man could test me, impress me, my cash flow would never ever end
Cause I'd have all the money in the world, if I was a wealthy girl

Think what that money could bring
I'd buy everything
Clean out Vivienne Westwood
In my Galliano gown
No, wouldn't just have one hood
A Hollywood mansion if I could
Please book me first class to my fancy house in London town

All the riches baby, won't mean anything
All the riches baby, bring what your love can bring
All the riches baby, won't mean anything
Don't need no other baby
Your lovin' is better than gold and I know

If I was rich girl (na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na nah)
See, I'd have all the money in the world, if I was a wealthy girl
No man could test me, impress me, my cash flow would never ever end
Cause I'd have all the money in the world, if I was a wealthy girl
I'd get me four Harajuku girls to
Inspire me and they'd come to my rescue
I'd dress them wicked, I'd give them names
Love, Angel, Music, Baby
Hurry up and come and save me

All the riches baby, won't mean anything
All the riches baby, bring what your love can bring
All the riches baby, won't mean anything
Don't need no other baby
Your lovin' is better than gold and I know

Come together all over the world
From the hoods of japan Harajuku girls
What? It's all love
What? Give it up
What?
(shouldn't matter)
What?
Come together all over the world
From the hoods of japan Harajuku girls
What? It's all the love
What? Give it up
What? (shouldn't matter)
What happened to my life? Turned up side down
Chicks that blew ya mind, ding, it's the second round
Original track and ting
You know you can't buy these things
See Stefani and her L.A.M.B I rock the fetish people you know who I am

Yes ma'am, we got the style that's wicked
I hope you can all keep up
We climbed all the way from the bottom to the top
now we ain't gettin' nothing but love

If I was rich girl (na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na nah)
See, I'd have all the money in the world, if I was a wealthy girl
No man could test me, impress me, my cash flow would never ever end
Cause I'd have all the money in the world, if I was a wealthy girl

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

http://www.vevo.com/watch/gwen-stefani/rich-girl/USIV20400701

Which is better: The English or the Italian silhouette? The Roma or the Napoli silhouette? Edward Green or John Lobb Paris shoes? Scottish cashmere or Italian cashmere? etc.?

Yes.

Why would anyone wear Eurotrash brands Gucci, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Armani, etc.?

If you have to ask, then you'll never know. Patty Loveless provides this guidance:

Patty Loveless
Don't Toss Us Away

Well it seems that everyone we know
The loves grown cold, while ours stand the storm
One by one they break
It such a shame
And now you say you want to do the same
Don't toss us away
So thoughtlessly
It just ain't right
Oh can't you see?
I still love you
I want you to stay
Darlin please don't toss us away
Well just think of all that we been through
The world we're building..me and you
How could all those years be tossed away
In just one moment..in just one day
Don't toss us away
It just ain't right
To let love die without a fight
I still love you
I want you to stay
Darlin please don't toss us away
So now I'm asking once again
To understand, to be my friend
Oh it hurts so bad to think you'd go
But still the same, I love you so
Don't toss us away
So thoughtlessly
It just ain't right
Oh can't you see?
I still love you
I want you to stay
Darlin please, don't toss us away
Oh darlin please
Don't toss us away

Well it seems that everyone we know
The loves grown cold, while ours stand the storm
One by one they break
It such a shame
And now you say you want to do the same
Don't toss us away
So thoughtlessly
It just ain't right
Oh can't you see?
I still love you
I want you to stay
Darlin please don't toss us away
Well just think of all that we been through
The world we're building..me and you
How could all those years be tossed away
In just one moment..in just one day
Don't toss us away
It just ain't right
To let love die without a fight
I still love you
I want you to stay
Darlin please don't toss us away
So now I'm asking once again
To understand, to be my friend
Oh it hurts so bad to think you'd go
But still the same, I love you so
Don't toss us away
So thoughtlessly
It just ain't right
Oh can't you see?
I still love you
I want you to stay
Darlin please, don't toss us away
Oh darlin please
Don't toss us away

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMN3R4IGE5E

http://www.vevo.com/watch/patty-loveless/dont-toss-us-away/USUV70501214

And since that bitch Patty Lovelace stole cow-punk Lone Justice's [sis Maria McKee and bro Bryan MacLean(RIP)] song:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOxpIhxpK5Q

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

Should I wear a bow-tie, ascot, spectator shoes, pocket-square, black suit, pink shirts, white pants, etc.?

If you have to ask, then you probably shouldn't.

What are the most important rules for wearing clothing?

Be true to thine self. The rules are most often just rules of thumb--c.f.: conventional wisdom--that give guidance as a starting point rather than an end unto itself. As Luciano Barbera said: "Everyone knows you wear wool in the winter, linen in the summer, and a straw hat from June 15th to Labor Day. Everyone is right. And therein lies the problem. Follow these rules and you will look like everyone else. Better that you display a little originality. On the gravest days of winter I put on my gray flannels, a cashmere tie in a sober color and my white linen jacket. The pants keep me warm. The tie gains me entrée into good restaurants. The blazer reminds me that summer will come again." Why should one be encased in Spanx-like rules concerning 1/16th of an inch about lapel widths, rounded toe only shoes, collar spreads, lapel's designs, tie widths, pant's hem length, amount of cuff to reveal, pleated pants or not, and a narrow range of colors restricted to between beige and grey?

Is it ever okay to wear bluchers rather balmorals with a suit?

Say what.

Isn't proper fit the one and only important element to being well dressed?

I've found that fabric and style come before fit.

Aren't Allen Edmonds/Alden shoes the best style and quality ready to wear shoes?

I don't know but I'll ask grandpa when I see him.

Why would any gentleman ever not button the buttons on a button-down shirt, wear French-cuffs without a suit or tie, leave one or more buttons of working button jacket unbuttoned, jeans with a blazer, loafers with a suit, baseball cap with a suit, hoodie with a suit, etc.?

sprezzatura

Luciano Barbera said: "A man must face the world with sprezzatura. It literally means detachment, but a better way to think of it is quiet confidence or low-key style. The most forceful statement is understatement. It is the philosophy behind everything I do."

What the difference between overcoats and topcoats, blazers and sport-coats, tuxedos and dinner jackets, jumpers and sweaters, shadgreen and stingray, alligator and crocodile, etc.

Beats me.

Can't a gentleman find every clothing item he would ever need at Jo. A. Banks?

Of course.

Gosh darn golly, aren't you bored with clothing already?

Nope.

What does one do if a 34R is too long and a 34S is too short? A 7A is too wide but can't find a 7AAA?

Get it custom made--bespoke, made-to-measure, etc.

Are shoe trees really important?

Always.

Should one get a pair of wore shoes re-crafted?

Replace the heel and put a thin rubber sole on and then buy a new pair of shoes, unless you are the Prince of Wales and then you have a big old patch of leather glued to the side of your shoe as true gentlemen do. Nevertheless, those old worn shoes of the Prince have so much character and texture that if he ever wants to give them away I'll wear them.

For instance, if one skin tone is Summer can one wear Fall colors, or then what colors should one avoid that aren't flattering to their skin tone?

Say what.

You seem rather ugly, so why even care about what clothes you wear, after all nobody else does. You'll never be a bella figura.

99 Luftballons

Also see: 99 Luftballons - English

Text: Carlo Karges
Musik: J. U. Fahrenkrog-Petersen

Hast du etwas Zeit für mich
Dann singe ich ein Lied für dich
Von 99 Luftballons
Auf ihrem Weg zum Horizont
Denkst du vielleicht g'rad an mich
Dann singe ich ein Lied für dich
Von 99 Luftballons
Und dass so was von so was kommt

99 Luftballons
Auf ihrem Weg zum Horizont
Hielt man für Ufos aus dem All
Darum schickte ein General
'ne Fliegerstaffel hinterher
Alarm zu geben, wenn es so wär
Dabei war'n da am Horizont
Nur 99 Luftballons

99 Düsenjäger
Jeder war ein großer Krieger
Hielten sich für Captain Kirk
Das gab ein großes Feuerwerk
Die Nachbarn haben nichts gerafft
Und fühlten sich gleich angemacht
Dabei schoss man am Horizont
Auf 99 Luftballons

99 Kriegsminister -
Streichholz und Benzinkanister -
Hielten sich für schlaue Leute
Witterten schon fette Beute
Riefen Krieg und wollten Macht
Mann, wer hätte das gedacht
Dass es einmal soweit kommt
Wegen 99 Luftballons

99 Jahre Krieg
Ließen keinen Platz für Sieger
Kriegsminister gibt's nicht mehr
Und auch keine Düsenflieger
Heute zieh' ich meine Runden
Seh' die Welt in Trümmern liegen
Hab' 'nen Luftballon gefunden
Denk' an dich und lass' ihn fliegen

NOTE: The German song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZwhzf8NC4o

Which is the best suit, shoe, tie, shirt, pocket-square, socks, overcoat, etc.?

The one you desire the most. Metaphysical certainty when it come to clothing is always a poor fit.

Isn't arguing and debating about clothes great fun and entrainment.

It is said that conflict and empathy make great fiction.

Don't people who know you think your interest in clothing is weird if not downright unhealthy (and unAmerican)?

Yes.

Aren't you concerned that given the way you dress that the other children at the playground will make fun of you and ostracize you and won't want to play with you.

Different strokes for different folks.

Isn't it part of the internet culture and convention to vigorously enjoy flame wars? Who doesn't get pleasure in ripping into another? Shouldn't you reply when you are denounced as excitable, malicious, malignant, vengeful, unforgiving, selfish, stingy, avaricious, coarse, vulgar, profane, obscene, furious blusterer, socialist, Nazi, liar, and at heart a coward? Aren't spit-flecked rants better than objectivity and dignity? It seems that one's order of barbecue must come with a side-dish of maggots. Isn't it good to unleash one's fury on these poor souls, rip out their entrails with one's bare hands, and feed them to wild boors?

Let's hope that the Jaws of Life can get your knickers out of their wad.

New International Version (©1984)
But I tell you, Do not resist an evil person. If someone strikes you on the right cheek, turn to him the other also.

New Living Translation (©2007)
But I say, do not resist an evil person! If someone slaps you on the right cheek, offer the other cheek also.

English Standard Version (©2001)
But I say to you, Do not resist the one who is evil. But if anyone slaps you on the right cheek, turn to him the other also.

New American Standard Bible (©1995)
"But I say to you, do not resist an evil person; but whoever slaps you on your right cheek, turn the other to him also.

International Standard Version (©2008)
But I tell you not to resist an evildoer. On the contrary, whoever slaps you on the right cheek, turn the other to him as well.

GOD'S WORD® Translation (©1995)
But I tell you not to oppose an evil person. If someone slaps you on your right cheek, turn your other cheek to him as well.

King James Bible
But I say unto you, That ye resist not evil: but whosoever shall smite thee on thy right cheek, turn to him the other also.

American King James Version
But I say to you, That you resist not evil: but whoever shall smite you on your right cheek, turn to him the other also.

American Standard Version
but I say unto you, resist not him that is evil: but whosoever smiteth thee on thy right cheek, turn to him the other also.

Bible in Basic English
But I say to you, Do not make use of force against an evil man; but to him who gives you a blow on the right side of your face let the left be turned.

Douay-Rheims Bible
But I say to you not to resist evil: but if one strike thee on thy right cheek, turn to him also the other:

Darby Bible Translation
But I say unto you, not to resist evil; but whoever shall strike thee on thy right cheek, turn to him also the other;

English Revised Version
but I say unto you, Resist not him that is evil: but whosoever smiteth thee on thy right cheek, turn to him the other also.

Webster's Bible Translation
But I say to you, That ye resist not evil: but whoever shall strike thee on thy right cheek, turn to him the other also.

Weymouth New Testament
But I tell you not to resist a wicked man, but if any one strikes you on the right cheek, turn the other to him as well.

World English Bible
But I tell you, don't resist him who is evil; but whoever strikes you on your right cheek, turn to him the other also.

Young's Literal Translation
but I -- I say to you, not to resist the evil, but whoever shall slap thee on thy right cheek, turn to him also the other;

While bitch Tereza Kerndlova stole what-it's-name song,the point is:

Careless Whisper

Time can never mend the careless whispers of a good friend
To the heart and mind, ignorance is kind
there's no comfort in the truth
pain is all you'll find
Should've known better
I feel so unsure
as I take your hand and lead you to the dance floor
as the music dies, something in your eyes
calls to mind the silver screen
and all its sad good-byes
I'm never gonna dance again
guilty feet have got no rhythm
though it's easy to pretend
I know your not a fool
Should've known better than to cheat a friend
and waste the chance that I've been given
so I'm never gonna dance again
the way I danced with you
Time can never mend
the careless whispers of a good friend
to the heart and mind
ignorance is kind
there's no comfort in the truth
pain is all you'll find
I'm never gonna dance again
guilty feet have got no rhythm
though it's easy to pretend
I know your not a fool
Should've known better than to cheat a friend
and waste this chance that I've been given
so I'm never gonna dance again
the way I danced with you
Never without your love
Tonight the music seems so loud
I wish that we could lose this crowd
Maybe it's better this way
We'd hurt each other with the things we'd want to say
We could have been so good together
We could have lived this dance forever
But noone's gonna dance with me
Please stay
And I'm never gonna dance again
guilty feet have got no rhythm
though it's easy to pretend
I know your not a fool
Should've known better than to cheat a friend
and waste the chance that I've been given
so I'm never gonna dance again
the way I danced with you
(Now that you're gone) Now that you're gone
(Now that you're gone) What I did's so wrong
that you had to leave me alone

I feel so unsure
As I take your hand
And lead you to the dance floor.
As the music dies
Something in your eyes
Calls to mind a silver screen
And all it's sad goodbyes.
CHORUS:
I'm never gonna dance again,
Guilty feet have got no rhythm.
Though it's easy to pretend,
I know you're not a fool.
I should have known better than to cheat a friend,
And waste the chance that I'd been given.
So I'm never gonna dance again,
The way I've danced with you.
Time can never mend,
The careless whispers of a good friend.
To the heart and mind, ignorance is kind
There's no comfort in the truth,
Pain is all you('ll) find.

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

http://www.vevo.com/watch/tereza-kerndlova/careless-whisper/CZUV70800048

What the best watch to buy?

If you think you'll ever might want sell it, then a Patek or a Rolex is the way to go. Otherwise, get what you really want and wear it with pleasure.

Does cost-benefit analysis apply to fine clothing?

Not exactly. A $6k suit or shoes will generally not outlast a $200 suit or shoes.

Isn't true style a result of careful editing to achieve a relatively modest wardrobe and is often a minimalistic effort? Aren't round toed gunboat shoes and scratchy charcoal wool clothe all any gentlemen needs? "Minimalism was huge. It's a very pure idea to dressing. The lines are more studied and nuanced almost like a ballet dancer giving a great performance. It may look easy, but it's actually brilliant. It is about what you don't notice." (Jeffrey Kalinsky)

Sounds boring artificial vanilla to me.

Why would any sane person pay good money for glue-job eye-talian shoes?

Got me.

Is handmade always better than machine-made?

No, but it's almost always more interesting.

What are must sees in New York City?

Bergdorf, Barneys, Leffot, Chinatown, Union Square, Zabars, Kiton, Brioni, etc.

What should one wear to a job interview?

Conservative Business Dress. Enough said.

How many pairs of shoes, suits, shirts, belts, etc does one need for proper rotation.

The more you have the longer your items will last.

What do you like most about Oxxford? The handwork.

Kiton? The fabrics, the handwork, the style. Widely despised by the official cognoscenti of grandpa clothing.

Brioni? The style, the fabrics.

Brunello Cucinelli? The style, the workmanship, the fabrics.

Loro Piana? The fabrics.

John Lobb? The leather, the style.

Zegna? The fabrics.

Prada? Style.

Dolce & Gabbana? Style.

Isn't the internet a good place for rants, raves, overblown complaints and criticism?

Complaint is poverty.

And while the bitch Inara Maryland George stole the song, she says it bestest:

I Can't Go For That

The Bird And The Bee

(originally by Hall & Oates)

Easy ready willing overtime
When does it stop, where do you dare me to draw the line?
You got the body now you want my soul
Don't even think about it say no go

Yeah I, I'll do anything that you want me to
Yeah I'll do almost anything that you want me to
Yeah, but I can't go for that
No, (no) no can do
I can't go for that
No, (no) no can do
I can't go for that
No, (no) no can do
I can't go for that
Can't go for that
Can't go for that
Can't go for that

I can go for being twice as nice
I can go for just repeating the some old lines
Use the body now you want my soul
Ooh forget about it, now say no go

Yeah I, I'll do anything that you want me to
Yeah I'll do almost anything that you want me to
Yeah, but I can't go for that
No, (no) no can do
I can't go for that
No, (no) no can do
I can't go for that
No, (no) no can do
I can't go for that
Can't go for that
Can't go for that
Can't go for that, yeah

Yeah I, I'll do anything that you want me to
Yeah I'll do almost anything that you want me to
Yeah, but I can't go for that
No, (no) no can do
I can't go for that
No, (no) no can do
I can't go for that
No, (no) no can do
I can't go for that
Can't go for that
Can't go for that
Can't go for that, yeah

No I can't go, no
I can't go for that, no no no
I can't go
I can't go
No I can't go for that, no
No can do
(No can do)
No, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no
No can do
Can't go for that, yeah
(No can do)
No, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no
No can do

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c93e-s0UT5g

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1LBAgillT3Y

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zdfxf8GLLms

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujPNvVX5fRw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0w-mRL6X9I

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ms_xpqF7hjY

Apparently, you just don't get the true importance of bespoke, and the fact it's light-years better than read-to-wear.

Apparently I don't.

Should an overcoat's hem come to one's mid-thigh, knee, mid-calf, or ankle length?

Yes, yes, yes, yes.

What is your background?

I have an AB in philosophy, MA and PhD in political science from a major state university. I'm currently a professor on sabbatical from a major state university where most of my duties have been empirical research and teaching research methods. My wife, two Maine coon boy cats, bloodhound girl dog, and I live across the street from one of the top ten private research universities in the country.

What is the best wine, beer, whiskey, bourbon, vodka, cocktail, cigar, coffee, controlled substance, casino game, exotic car, Las Vegas hotel, poker game, sporting event, Florida resort, Savile Row tailor, Napoli bespoke tailor, London bespoke shoemaker?

I'll have to leave those judgments to my betters in that I couldn't know having no empirical base experiences to make such judgments.

How exactly does one determine for a suit what is the best gorge height, waist suppression, drape, armhole height, wool fabric weight, jacket length, hem break, pant pleats, leg width, number of jacket buttons, etc.

One develops a personal style over time by multiple trials, or one can adopt a mentor's style whole-cloth, or some combination of the both.

Can one be a gentleman and wear shoes and boots made of alligator, crocodile, ostrich, lizard, eel, stingray, elephant, anteater, shark, hippopotamus, etc.?

Yes. But please note that some observers may experience difficulty maintaining decorum in the presence of such footwear. The care and maintenance of these delicate gentlemen. nevertheless, is handled by:

Criminal

Fiona Apple

I've been a bad, bad girl
I've been careless with a delicate man
And it's a sad, sad world
When a girl will break a boy
Just because she can

Don't you tell me to deny it
I've done wrong and I wanna suffer for my sins
I've come to you cause I need guidance to be true
And I just don't know where I can begin

What I need is a good defense
Cause I'm feelin' like a criminal
And I need to be redeemed
To the one I've sinned against
Because he's all I ever knew of love

Heaven help me for the way I am
Save me from these evil deeds before I get them done
I know tomorrow brings the consequence at hand
But I keep livin' this day
Like the next will never come

Oh help me, but don't tell me to deny it
I've got to cleanse myself
Of all these lies til I'm good enough for him
I've got a lot to lose
And I'm bettin' high so I'm beggin' you
Before it ends
Just tell me where I begin

What I need is a good defense
Cause I'm feelin' like a criminal
And I need to be redeemed
To the one I've sinned against
Because he's all I ever knew of love

Let me know the way
Before there's hell to pay
Give me room to lay the law and let me go
I've got to make a play
To make my lover stay
So what would an angel say
The devil wants to know

What I need is a good defense
Cause I'm feelin' like a criminal
And I need to be redeemed
To the one I've sinned against
Because he's all I ever knew of love

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

http://www.vevo.com/watch/fiona-apple/criminal/USSM20301174

Can a gentleman wear cowboy boots with a suit?

Yes, but you will offend the tender sensibilities of some.

Are there any questions you can't answer?

Yes, but those are answered by ¡Ask a Mexican!® at Ask a Mexican.

Do you own and do you wear black suits during daytime? Aren't they ugly, cheap looking, unflattering, low-class, and common looking--not to say tacky too?

Yes. There is a conservative--old school--business view of things that can't get over the black suit phenomena. Black suits are in the stores, people buy them, and they do actually wear them in daytime. The world of men's clothing is a dynamic marketplace and styles change, including black suits becoming more popular. Why is the big deal? Historically, this is not the first time business men have donned black during daytime. Perhaps, Joan Jett can explain it better:

Joan Jett and The Blackhearts
Black Leather (Live)

(Steve Jones)
Ooh,
Well, he's all geared up, walkin' down the street
I can see the slime, drippin' down his sleeve
Well, you can't refuse and you just can't choose what he's gonna do
Well, you can't refuse and you just can't choose what he's gonna do
Ooh,
Well, it's late at night, and I'm all alone
I can hear the boots gettin' near her home
Well, you can't refuse and you just can't choose what he's gonna do
Well, you can't refuse and you just can't choose what he's gonna do
Scratch, scratch, he's clawing at the door
Whoa, no, I can't take it anymore
Crack, crack I'm feeling so sore,
I never should have asked for black leather
Black leather, black leather, black leather
You can try to hide, you know you won't get far
You let him in, and you'll start again
Well, you can't refuse and you just can't choose what he's gonna do
Well, you can't refuse and you just can't choose what he's gonna do
Scratch, scratch, she's clawing at the door
Whoa, no, I can't take it anymore
Crack, crack I'm feeling so sore,
I never should asked for black leather
Black leather, black leather, black leather

(Joan JettReggie GriffinEddie MorrisWilliam Adler)
I will not take off my clothes
I will not be rude
For what I have done
Is come to rock you
Late at night while the normals rest
I feel wicked when I start to dress
My clothes, they stare at me like they
Wanna make love to my body
I'm not a dream but I'm supreme and if ya
Listen to the sky you see what I mean
When it rains outside, people run and hide
I walk the streets and start to pry
And wonder was I here before?
In another life? Yes! I'm sure but what
As I suppose why do I get power from these clothes
Black leather, I wear it on stage
Black leather, I'm gonna wear it to my grave
Black leather, I will wear it anywhere
Because my name is JOAN JETT and I don't care
Just the feel of it on my flesh makes me
Feel wild feel possessed
But I'm not don't get me wrong
I'm the baddest slick chick just singin'
This song
Lilly white dresses sure they're cute
They also attract a lot of men to you
But they make you feel real vulnerable
From anything that got muscle
But ya cannot take what I would not give
Cuz that's the truth that's how I live
Listen don't slick talk me to make me indulge
Cuz I am JOAN and I am luv!
I have this friend in a waterbed
He's real wild when he's soak'n'wet
Yo JOAN let's hang till the early dawn
SCORP chill till I put my leather on
Black leather, I wear it on stage
Black leather, I'm gonna wear it to my grave
Black leather, I will wear it anywhere
Because my name is JOAN JETT and I don't care
Just the feel of it on my flesh make me
Feel wild

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9bImbzMcrE

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

What do you think about The Sartorialist blog?

Excellent pictures of girls riding bicycles (and scooters). The Rolling Stones summed it quite well:

Some Girls

Some girls give me money
Some girls buy me clothes
Some girls give me jewelry
That I never thought I'd own
Some girls give me diamonds
Some girls, heart attacks
Some girls I give all my bread to
I don't ever want it back
Some girls give me jewelry
Others buy me clothes
Some girls give me children
I never asked them for
So give me all your money
Give me all your gold
I'll buy you a house back in Zuma beach
And give you half of what I own
Some girls take my money
Some girls take my clothes
Some girls get the shirt off my back
And leave me with a lethal dose
French girls they want Cartier
Italian girls want cars
American girls want everything in the world
You can possibly imagine
English girls they're so prissy
I can't stand them on the telephone
Sometimes I take the receiver off the hook
I don't want them to ever call at all
White girls they're pretty funny
Sometimes they drive me mad
Black girls just wanna get fucked all night
I just don't have that much jam
Chinese girls are so gentle
They're really such a tease
You never know quite what they're cookin'
Inside those silky sleeves
Give me all you money
Give me all your gold
I'll buy you a house back in Zuma beach
And give you half of what I own
Some girls they're so pure
Some girls so corrupt
Some girls give me children
I only made love to her once
Give me half your money
Give me half your car
Give me half of everything
I'll make you world's biggest star
So gimme all.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y78mv4cK1CI

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

Wouldn't understanding the nuances of clothing increase your enjoyment of true style. How can you ignore nuance once it's been revealed.

The "narcissism of small differences" comes by way of Sigmund Freud and Ernest Crawley, describing how negative feelings may be put on those who otherwise resemble a group but the group take great pride from the "small differences" that distinguish their group from undesirable others. The most baffling aspect of these clothing conversations on the internet has been over debates concerning personal style. This is somewhat curious because those in the debate do not seem especially adept at style. The debaters seem to most want that their style should mostly gone unnoticed--and this is a good thing in a Martha Stewart way. It must be undistracting--tongues may not wag. Clothes will undoubtedly be stylish, but it must be unremarkable to all except the informed cognoscenti--this is a prime requirement. They wish to be perceived as proper, intelligent, and pleasant to all. Those who are unlike them are dismissed as beneath the bridezillas or Paris Hiltons. Their clothing culture rewards decorum most of all.

I find the nuance of fabric and leather to be my chief enjoyment of clothing--fine cashmere and leather are without equal. The nuances of style also are most rewarding--this is where, say, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana with careful editing bring great aesthetic pleasures. The nuances of fit are just over my head--it just seems neurotic that 1/34 of inch (or whatever) in button placement makes a difference; I just don't get it.

What's the best book about clothing styles?

The Essence of Style: How the French Invented High Fashion, Fine Food, Chic Cafes, Style, Sophistication, and Glamour by Joan DeJean (2005).

What is your favorite clothing store?

By far it's Anthropologie. While I've not bought any there (though I might consider the books and furniture), it has by far the most attractive women customers and sales ladies of any store I visit with my wife.

Don't you agree with PETA that it's morally and ethically wrong to wear coats that are lined with the fleece of lambs, sheep, goats, rabbits, opossum, ermine, beaver, etc?

Fleece is leather--a renewable resource that provides what are often premium paying jobs. Shearling is both rugged and pleasurable. Of course, all animals must be bred and treated humanely. For those who are emotional and passionate on this issue, there are no rational or logical points that will move them.

What do you think of the Thom Browne cropped pant look?

If you foresee a flood, then by all means wear flood pants; dig clams in clam diggers; walk on the beach on the Isle of Capri in Capri pants; ride a bike in pedal-pushers; load bananas on a Caribbean island in calypso pants; drive cattle in the Pampas in Gaucho pants; if you golf with Bobby Jones (though currently residing at the Oakland Cemetery in Atlanta) wear knickerbockers, though plus twos, fours, sixes or eights may be substituted; knee pants are appropriate if Johnny Mercer writes a song about you; do construction work in Japan in tobi trousers; rafting the Mississippi River with Huckleberry Finn; otherwise, cover you ankles up--no manner how fetching they might be.

Where is the best place to find fine quality clothing?

It has been my experience that brick-and-mortar stores that are in most large cities often have the best combination of service and price. There's no substitute for being able to feel and try-on a garment before buying. It's been years since I've been able to find any deals on the internet.

What is the best men's underwear?

Hanro and Zimmerli.

How do you response to this comment by bespoke tailor Mr. Despos: "Custom/bespoke clothing is about choices of cloth and styling but there is so much more to it than meets the eye. People hark on and on about having an individual pattern made but what makes it worthwhile is the customization of "fit". Regardless of how much you are "up to date on proper fit", you have to conform to a RTW garment, it cannot conform to you.
Custom tailoring comes down to accessing a mans shape, his irregularities, his personality and making something that is not only functional but aesthetically pleasing to the eye. There is so much manipulation of the pattern and cloth done in the fitting process and these efforts are unique to each individual client. There is no single approach to making a suit as there are too many factors to consider. At the minimum most all men will have one shoulder lower than the other or one hip higher than the other. Prominent shoulder blades, full chests, round backs, forward pitched shoulders, boney shoulders, sloping shoulders, square shoulders, big bellies, stooped or erect postures, etc. etc.. The possibilities and combinations go on and on. It takes years of experience to understand what to do, where to do it and how much to do, to compensate for a man's asymmetrical physique. It takes more years to know how to sew a garment that is visually appealing and yet has a kinetic nature.
The end result to the client is personal satisfaction in an intangible sort of way."

May the Lord God Jehovah bless him.

Can a gentleman wear leather blazers and leather overcoats only if he is empowered to say: "Your papers are not in order"?

Clothing does not have rules like tennis but has principles based on aesthetics. We're talking art, not science much less metaphysical certainty.

Are milk products always bad for people?

Many thousand of clinical scientific research studies have shown milk to often be good to consume or have a neutral impact despite conventional wisdom to the contrary.

What's the best raincoat?

Whatever style one prefers, Loro Piana Storm System is the best fabric. It's one of the few products that lives up to its hype. It comes in cashmere, camel-hair, wool, cotton, etc. It's truly rain and wind proof.

Sometimes you wear the bottoms of your trousers rolled. Are you, like, trying to channel J. Alfred Prufrock?

Yes.

Do you have a proper umbrella?

Yes, from the Dollar Store.

Your chilling stoic shtick concerning clothing seems out of place compared to the hot, passionate ranting and raving of many internet critics who despise their way to fame and fortune.

OK.
My Prerogative
Britney Spears

People can take everything away from you
But they can never take away your truth
But the question is..
Can you handle mine?

They say I'm crazy
I really don't care
That's my prerogative
They say I'm nasty
But I don't give a damn
Getting boys is how I live
Some ask me questions
Why am I so real?
But they don't understand me
I really don't know the deal about my sister
Trying hard to make it right
Not long ago
Before I won this fight

Everybody's talking all this stuff about me
Why don't they just let me live?
I don't need permission, make my own decisions
That's my prerogative
that's my prerogative
(it's my prerogative)

It's the way that I wanna live (it's my prerogative)
You can't tell me what to do

Don't get me wrong
I'm really not souped
Ego trips is not my thing
All these strange relationships really gets me down
I see nothing wrong in spreading myself around

Everybody's talking all this stuff about me
Why don't they just let me live?
I don't need permission, make my own decisions
That's my prerogative
That's my prerogative

Everybody's talking all this stuff about me
Why don't they just let me live?
I don't need permission, make my own decisions
That's my prerogative
that's my prerogative

It's the way that I wanna live (it's my prerogative)
You can't tell me what to do

why can't I live my life
without all of the things
That people say
oh oh

Everybody's talking all this stuff about me
Why don't they just let me live?
I don't need permission, make my own decisions
That's my prerogative (they say I'm crazy)

Everybody's talking all this stuff about me
Why don't they just let me live? (they say I'm nasty)
I don't need permission, make my own decisions
That's my prerogative
(it's my prerogative)

Even though that bitch Britney Spears stole Bobby Brown song:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7iPfrVPsFMQ
http://www.vevo.com/watch/britney-spears/my-prerogative/USZM20400820
NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

Don't you see the almost zen like qualities of the perfectly fitting clothing items that blend harmoniously, combing subtle colors and textures. That attention to detail and nuance are what is of the highest importance. Isn't sprezzatura just an excuse for sloppy fit, construction, boorishness and laziness?

No.

Do you have any thoughts on groupthink concerning clothing?

Groupthink is "mean-girls" with a strongly cohesive in-group of members trying to minimize conflict and maintain consensus but not seriously testing, analyzing or evaluating clothing choices or rules. Groupthinkers seek to prevented clothing choices that contradict their own clothing expression. They are deeply involved in cohesive in-group norms with a desire for unanimity overriding realistic appraisals of alternative clothing choices. This involves using the cliquishness and exclusion usually found in fifth-grade sleepover parties or frat houses. What is offered as entertainment is actually about being rude, crude, nasty, mean, and crass. Individual choice, creativity, flair, uniqueness, eccentricity and independent clothing actions are forsaken for cohesiveness, lacking rational balance in clothing choice and appearance. With groupthink they avoid allowing viewpoints outside the comfort zone of uniform thinking. Groupthinkers want to avoid being thought of as foolish, or to avoid embarrassing or angering the group. Groupthink causes members to make hasty, irrational decisions to avoid offending the "mean-girls", meaning that individual doubts are set aside, for fear of upsetting the group’s balance. The impulse for group-thinking is not a rational thing. People are generally hardwired to bond closely to their own group and to be suspicious of nonconforming others. When someone else belongs to their group, they like that person better also. However, certain features that show group membership can be manipulated by haters, resulting in fear of people who don't have those group features. This is home to much mischief. Maybe Frank Sinatra explained it best:

The Lady Is A Tramp

She gets too hungry, for dinner at eight
She likes the theatre, and never comes late
She never bothers, with people she'd hate
That's why the lady is a tramp

Doesn't like crap games, with barons or earls
Won't go to Harlem, in ermine and pearls
Won't dish the dirt, with the rest of the girls
That's why the lady is a tramp

She likes the free, fresh wind in her hair
Life without care
She's broke, and it's oak
Hates California, it's cold and it's damp
That's why the lady is a tramp

She gets too hungry, to wait for dinner at eight
She loves the theatre, but never comes late
She'd never bother, with people She'd hate
Thats why the Lady is a Tramp

She'll have no crap games, with Sharpie's and Fraud's
And she won't go to Harlem, in Lincoln's or Ford's
And she won't dish the dirt, with the rest of the broads
That's why the Lady is a Tramp

She loves the free, fresh, wind in her hair
Life without care
She's broke, but it's oak
Hates California, it's so cold, and so damp
That's why the Lady, That's why the Lady
That's why the Lady is a Tramp.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=daCy5-52gWo

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

And that's why I would never take the A Train to Harlem wearing my summer ermine lined Brioni jacket.

And here's Ella Fitzgerald taking the A Train to Harlem:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhK-zYfFsIY

Why do you think there is so much player hate on the internet, and how best to respond to this hate?

Player hate seems to be a totally encompassing affront on the clothing style of the individual to whom it's aimed at, and it's broader in scope though more specific than the simple term hate. On a daily basis, haters bemoan, gripe, detest and feign outrage over nothing of import. They're self-appointed provocateurs interested in keeping their internet profile high and others to be in a lather for the haters own pleasure.

New International Version (©1984)
Your enemies will be clothed in shame, and the tents of the wicked will be no more."

New Living Translation (©2007)
Those who hate you will be clothed with shame, and the home of the wicked will be destroyed."

English Standard Version (©2001)
Those who hate you will be clothed with shame, and the tent of the wicked will be no more.”

New American Standard Bible (©1995)
"Those who hate you will be clothed with shame, And the tent of the wicked will be no longer."

GOD'S WORD® Translation (©1995)
Those who hate you will be clothed with shame, and the tent of the wicked will cease to exist."

King James Bible
They that hate thee shall be clothed with shame; and the dwelling place of the wicked shall come to nought.

American King James Version
They that hate you shall be clothed with shame; and the dwelling place of the wicked shall come to nothing.

American Standard Version
They that hate thee shall be clothed with shame; And the tent of the wicked shall be no more.

Bible in Basic English
Your haters will be clothed with shame, and the tent of the sinner will not be seen again.

Douay-Rheims Bible
They that hate thee, shall be clothed with confusion: and the dwelling of the wicked shall not stand.

Darby Bible Translation
They that hate thee shall be clothed with shame, and the tent of the wicked be no more.

English Revised Version
They that hate thee shall be clothed with shame; and the tent of the wicked shall be no more.

Webster's Bible Translation
They that hate thee shall be clothed with shame; and the dwelling place of the wicked shall come to naught.

World English Bible
Those who hate you shall be clothed with shame. The tent of the wicked shall be no more."

Young's Literal Translation
Those hating thee do put on shame, And the tent of the wicked is not!

Why would anybody need even one overcoat, must less two or more?

Overcoats are among my favor garments. For wet weather one needs Loro Piana Storm System overcoats. Different lengths hems are desirable also. Of course one must have various colors including navy, charcoal, grey, camel, brown, etc. Differing fabrics are also required, including: cashmere, camelhair, guanaco, vicuña, merino, escorial, etc. Also, there are many styles of overcoats to consider.

What is the most expensive clothing item you ever bought, and the best bargain?

Prices are relative so I've not yet likely to have purchased my most expensive item or found my best bargain.... I keep an eye out for new and different items, and when incentives are available I acquire new pieces. Fine clothing can be hard to locate so it's best to act when it's available at the right price, because in my experience it's not likely to be there the next time.

Are there any good clothing sales associates you can recommend?

I've encountered many good sales people. The best help I get is when they alert me to new items or to sales or promotions. Nevertheless, I prefer to do my own shopping in my own way at my own time and pace, thank you just the same.

Come on, surely you have opinions about blue jeans? Which are the best jeans?

Well, they're not a terribly interesting topic. If you like them, wear them, otherwise don't. Next topic. Nevertheless, I enjoy wearing them. You can get a great jeans from Costco for less than a small steak (and tap water) at Longhorns. For the cost of sixty plus pairs of Costco jeans will get one a pair of Kiton jeans, for instance. I've have found them both to be great jeans. I usually give my dad two pairs of unwashed--hard--Levi jeans for his birthday which often necessitated going to the horse supply store to find his odd size. Recently, he wanted to update my ignorance to know that Levi's makes jeans that are soften and prewashed, and he would much prefer those jeans.

Don't you think that for a gentleman to have true style that it is hard, takes time and taste, and quality clothing is part of style but not the most important component? Style requires that clothes must fit--many trips to the alterations tailor for precision. Pressed clothes, shined shoes daily, and personal grooming are mandatory. Understatement is a must.

OK, but you may windup looking like your mother dressed you.

Can one have too much cashmere?

Too much cashmere is not enough cashmere. My only regret is that there are not enough winter days to wear all my cashmere garments. So how does fine cashmere feel and wear? It is always difficult to be objective when faced with such iconic fabrics like cashmere, camelhair, guanaco, vicuña, merino, escorial, without actually wearing them; with wearing it becomes easier to understand their complexity. After wearing, the adjectives used to describe their feel range from satin and silk to smooth and velvety just to list a few. But they are just so special. To describe these fabrics simply in terms of feel is to miss a point. Avoiding descending into the incomprehensible, when I wear cashmere and other fine wools, these wools evoke a similar intellectual stimulation to listening to great music or viewing a beautiful work of rare art. These fine wools can be described in terms of character, as opposed to just feel. Some may find cashmere as too masculine and arrogant, or too soft and feminine, or too precious and rare, etc. Just relax and enjoy them.

Should a gentleman get a long lasting wool overcoat or a delicate cashmere overcoat?

The fact is that quality cashmere is quiet long lasting. I have a dozen vintage cashmere (and vicuña) overcoats that are over 60 years old and show almost no wear. The only wear problems I have noted is that lining are likely to give out long before wear shows up in quality cashmere fabric.

Isn't this blog just a mix of exhibitionism and voyeurism? It's far too long, and overbearing for the weighted down woolen tone of pseudo modesty that clothes the egomania at the center of the blog. Isn't your morbid obsession with clothing just a manifestation of hobbyism, rather a true style? You're are hyper-defensive, overly evasive and stiff as a preacher's Johnson at a wedding.

Yep.

Don't you agree music from analog recordings and played on tube equipment just sound better than similar quality digital ones.

I was trained to repair and build highest quality tube equipment ever built--wire-to-wire equipment, pre-circuit-board. I thought it far inferior to digital, solid state equipment. The low power, the high heat, the bulk and weight of the transformers, the short life of the tubes and capacitors, the high level of internal noise and static, all made the equipment rather sad--so much effort and expense for so little. The first solid state equipment I got to work on still leaves me with a sense of awe. Just about all the compromises of tube equipment were gone with almost no downsides. A 200 pound, 50 tube receiver would be far inferior to one the size of a cellphone today. Poor quality music recording and equipment--whether analog of digital--is just poor quality. I first thought about doing tube equipment repair as a way to work through college--but I became a computer programmer and built solid state equipment on the side. The same logic holds for high quality music recording: digital is far superior to analog.

Gee, man, why do you get so much of your crappy overprice Eurotrash garbage brands from Needless Markup?

It has been my experience that with its sales, promotions, coupons, etc. that I can get items at prices better than internet sources such as eBay. For instance, the same items that I get at NM show up on eBay offered at prices that imply the sellers got them at about the same price I paid so that their profit markup makes their items much more than I have had to pay. I've yet to find any bargains on new or used clothing items at eBay or other internet sources that beat the brick-and-mortar stores I regularly shop.

Where are the miracles promised by the sequencing of the human genome and how much longer must one wait?

Only when there are a number of good theories of how genes and environments interact are offered and tested. As of now, the theories just aren't there--sorry for the bad news.

Why do some followers of Islam want to harm Americans and other Westerners?

When the various Islam groups are able to have peaceful compromises with fellow followers of Islam, and stop violence on other Islam groups, they will realize that they don't have now and never had a fight with the West. Attaching the West is just a tactic to divert attention from the intra-groups conflict among some Islam groups. Middle class followers of Islam have had poor success in moderating the conflicts among the modernize, Western educated and oriented privileged governing elites, and the oppressed, struggling underclass demagogues, contributing in a large part to the rise of fundamentalist violence both within and external to the Islamic countries. Those of us in the West will just continue to have to avoid collateral damage as best we can. Again, sorry to say but compromises and compassion among some followers of Islam toward other followers of Islam seems far off in the future.

Shouldn't you take the shopping diet: something like this--pick only six items of clothing, then proceed to wear them and only them for a month? Wouldn't the zen minimalism be cleansing and purifying?

Uh? This has the aura of a irrational passion for dispassionate rationality in style. A playful non-deliberateness and sense of openness and wide-angle view of clothing leads to an expansive pleasure of forming and enhancing one's style. The concept of found object of clothing embraces the imagination of the wearer. The mystery of a surprise garment find can be about it's origins, the feeling that it's a chance occurrence, and the sense of newness or wonder surrounding the garment as found object. A found object may stand by itself or may start a collection. It's okay to deliberately seek out such unexpected clothing, or to allow a random by-chance process of discovering of clothing found objects as a way to enhance one's style.

Don't you agree that the official United State Navy peacoat is the one and only appropriate peacoat to wear?

A number of designers have done their own tweaking of the peacoat which I have found to be most stylish. After all, the Navy got their official design from previous designs, and they could have gone with British Navy's duffel coat design. The official peacoat (per the U.S. government contract label in it) I have is too itchy scratchy and not as warm as cashmere and shearling peacoat designs I also have.

"Dost thou think, because thou art virtuous, there shall be no more cakes and ale?" (Twelfth Night)

It's okay for clothing to enhance one's own experience, appreciate life, and have a reasonably good time (though I'm skipping the ale). So attack clothing choices, take cheap shots at brands, shoot fish in a shoe barrel, vaunt superior complexes of bespoke, tragic senses of the heavy wool life, and vacant psychobabble about fit as one's esteem needs be. Let's not wind-up like Kelly Willis:

What did you think
Bruce Robison
What did you think that I've been waiting for
All night
To hear you cry again about her on my shoulder
And what did you think I could say to you
That you ain't heard
Wondering what in the world do I know about love

And what did you think that you've been waiting for
You've had
Long enough of throwin' good love after bad
And what in the world is all this talkin' for
Nobody's
Every changed nobody's mind about what's right
In front of them

When the cause of all your pain is spoken
One more breakin' heart is broken down

And what did you think the night is really for
Except for sleepin'
Or else that empty feelin' creepin' that they don't
Really care at all

When the cause of all your pain is hopin'
One more breakin' heart is broken down

What did you think I've been waiting for
All night
To hear you cry again about her on my shoulder
And what did you think that I could say to you
That you ain't heard
I'm wondering what in the world do I know about love, about love

Do I know about love, about love.

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

Here's Kelly Willis singing "I Don't Want To Love You (But I Do)":
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=by9LIwwevhQ

Why the wall of flea market pictures, children's squiggles, photographs and old mirrors?

I'm a visual person so this vibe is a way of living with a bunch of junk and trying make it look appealing.

Why don't you brag about how little you paid for your garments like normal folks do? Or conversely, how high a price you paid? Are you too good to brag, or just too snooty?

New International Version (©1984)
Pride goes before destruction, a haughty spirit before a fall.

New Living Translation (©2007)
Pride goes before destruction, and haughtiness before a fall.

English Standard Version (©2001)
Pride goes before destruction, and a haughty spirit before a fall.

New American Standard Bible (©1995)
Pride goes before destruction, And a haughty spirit before stumbling.

GOD'S WORD® Translation (©1995)
Pride precedes a disaster, and an arrogant attitude precedes a fall.

King James Bible
Pride [goeth] before destruction, and an haughty spirit before a fall.

American King James Version
Pride goes before destruction, and an haughty spirit before a fall.

American Standard Version
Pride goeth before destruction, And a haughty spirit before a fall.

Bible in Basic English
Pride goes before destruction, and a stiff spirit before a fall.

Douay-Rheims Bible
Pride goeth before destruction: and the spirit is lifted up before a fall.

Darby Bible Translation
Pride goeth before destruction, and a haughty spirit before a fall.

English Revised Version
Pride goeth before destruction, and an haughty spirit before a fall.

Webster's Bible Translation
Pride goeth before destruction, and a haughty spirit before a fall.

World English Bible
Pride goes before destruction, and a haughty spirit before a fall.

Young's Literal Translation
Before destruction is pride, And before stumbling -- a haughty spirit.

Why are there so few reader comments on your blog? Are you afraid of criticism?

No ranting, raving, jumping, jiving, or wailing comments, thank you.

Aren't rules about proper clothing choices fundamental to good style? The wisdom of the masters of the intricacies of clothing about correct fit, color, texture, length, nuance, context, etc. are a must after all.

Sara Bareilles - King of Anything
Keep drinking coffee, stare me down across the table
While I look outside
So many things I’d say if only I were able
But I just keep quiet and count the cars that pass by

You’ve got opinions, man
We’re all entitled to ‘em, but I never asked
So let me thank you for your time, and try not to waste anymore of mine
And get out of here fast

I hate to break it to you babe, but I’m not drowning
There’s no one here to save

Who cares if you disagree?
You are not me
Who made you king of anything?
So you dare tell me who to be?
Who died and made you king of anything?

You sound so innocent, all full of good intent
Swear you know best
But you expect me to jump up on board with you
And ride off into your delusional sunset

I’m not the one who’s lost with no direction
But you’ll never see
You’re so busy making maps with my name on them in all caps
You got the talking down, just not the listening

And who cares if you disagree?
You are not me
Who made you king of anything?
So you dare tell me who to be?
Who died and made you king of anything?

All my life I’ve tried to make everybody happy
While I just hurt and hide
Waiting for someone to tell me it’s my turn to decide

Who cares if you disagree?
You are not me
Who made you king of anything?
So you dare tell me who to be?
Who died and made you king of anything?

Who cares if you disagree?
You are not me
Who made you king of anything?
So you dare tell me who to be?
Who died and made you king of anything?

Let me hold your crown, babe.
Oh, oh.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eR7-AUmiNcA

http://www.vevo.com/watch/sara-bareilles/king-of-anything/USSM21000846

Copyright Sony
NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

What's the story on the superior ones who are so hyper-critical of those poor souls that post pictures of what they are wearing?

New International Version (©1984)
Jesus said to them, "Surely you will quote this proverb to me: 'Physician, heal yourself! Do here in your hometown what we have heard that you did in Capernaum.'"

New Living Translation (©2007)
Then he said, "You will undoubtedly quote me this proverb: 'Physician, heal yourself'--meaning, 'Do miracles here in your hometown like those you did in Capernaum.'

English Standard Version (©2001)
And he said to them, “Doubtless you will quote to me this proverb, ‘Physician, heal yourself.’ What we have heard you did at Capernaum, do here in your hometown as well.”

New American Standard Bible (©1995)
And He said to them, "No doubt you will quote this proverb to Me, 'Physician, heal yourself! Whatever we heard was done at Capernaum, do here in your hometown as well.'"

International Standard Version (©2008)
So he said to them, "You will probably quote this proverb to me, 'Doctor, heal yourself! Do everything here in your hometown that we hear you did in Capernaum.'"

GOD'S WORD® Translation (©1995)
So he said to them, "You'll probably quote this proverb to me, 'Doctor, cure yourself!' and then say to me, 'Do all the things in your hometown that we've heard you've done in Capernaum.'"

King James Bible
And he said unto them, Ye will surely say unto me this proverb, Physician, heal thyself: whatsoever we have heard done in Capernaum, do also here in thy country.

American King James Version
And he said to them, You will surely say to me this proverb, Physician, heal yourself: whatever we have heard done in Capernaum, do also here in your country.

American Standard Version
And he said unto them, Doubtless ye will say unto me this parable, Physician, heal thyself: whatsoever we have heard done at Capernaum, do also here in thine own country.

Bible in Basic English
And he said to them, Without doubt you will say to me, Let the medical man make himself well: the things which to our knowledge were done at Capernaum, do them here in your country.

Douay-Rheims Bible
And he said to them: Doubtless you will say to me this similitude: Physician, heal thyself: as great things as we have heard done in Capharnaum, do also here in thy own country.

Darby Bible Translation
And he said to them, Ye will surely say to me this parable, Physician, heal thyself; whatsoever we have heard has taken place in Capernaum do here also in thine own country.

English Revised Version
And he said unto them, Doubtless ye will say unto me this parable, Physician, heal thyself: whatsoever we have heard done at Capernaum, do also here in thine own country.

Webster's Bible Translation
And he said to them, Ye will surely say to me this proverb, Physician, heal thyself: whatever we have heard done in Capernaum, do also here in thy country.

Weymouth New Testament
"Doubtless," said He, "you will quote to me the proverb, 'Physician, cure yourself: all that we hear that you have done at Capernaum, do here also in your native place.'"

World English Bible
He said to them, "Doubtless you will tell me this parable, 'Physician, heal yourself! Whatever we have heard done at Capernaum, do also here in your hometown.'"

Young's Literal Translation
And he said unto them, 'Certainly ye will say to me this simile, Physician, heal thyself; as great things as we heard done in Capernaum, do also here in thy country;'

Where is your review of the clothes in "Wall Street" and its sequel films?

I haven't seen either film and I'm not inclined to see them. However, I have enjoyed reading about the wardrobes. It has been claimed that what the "Sex and the City" show was for women's style, "Wall Street" film was for menswear style. Rather than the films following some existing version of Conservative Business Dress, trad/preppy, urban, or the like, the film's designer Ellen Mirojnick developed a style statement that was bold, individual, distinct, character driven, and fresh. The styles were not to fit in with one's peers' clothing, stereotypical of banker or broker, but rather to present powerful signals by the accents and details such as fabric, color, cut, pattern, shirt collars, shoes, watches and accessories through fine quality. Style, for lack of a better word, is good. Style is right. Style works. Style clarifies, cuts through, and captures, the essence of the aesthetic spirit.

Isn't this whole blog just a pathetic, embarrassing joke, or are you just insane?

New International Version (©1984)
Do not be deceived: God cannot be mocked. A man reaps what he sows.

New Living Translation (©2007)
Don't be misled--you cannot mock the justice of God. You will always harvest what you plant.

English Standard Version (©2001)
Do not be deceived: God is not mocked, for whatever one sows, that will he also reap.

New American Standard Bible (©1995)
Do not be deceived, God is not mocked; for whatever a man sows, this he will also reap.

International Standard Version (©2008)
Stop being deceived; God is not to be ridiculed. A person harvests whatever he plants:

GOD'S WORD® Translation (©1995)
Make no mistake about this: You can never make a fool out of God. Whatever you plant is what you'll harvest.

King James Bible
Be not deceived; God is not mocked: for whatsoever a man soweth, that shall he also reap.

American King James Version
Be not deceived; God is not mocked: for whatever a man sows, that shall he also reap.

American Standard Version
Be not deceived; God is not mocked: for whatsoever a man soweth, that shall he also reap.

Bible in Basic English
Be not tricked; God is not made sport of: for whatever seed a man puts in, that will he get back as grain.

Douay-Rheims Bible
Be not deceived, God is not mocked.

Darby Bible Translation
Be not deceived: God is not mocked; for whatever a man shall sow, that also shall he reap.

English Revised Version
Be not deceived; God is not mocked: for whatsoever a man soweth, that shall he also reap.

Webster's Bible Translation
Be not deceived; God is not mocked: for whatever a man soweth, that shall he also reap.

Weymouth New Testament
Do not deceive yourselves. God is not to be scoffed at. For whatever a man sows, that he will also reap.

World English Bible
Don't be deceived. God is not mocked, for whatever a man sows, that he will also reap.

Young's Literal Translation
Be not led astray; God is not mocked; for what a man may sow -- that also he shall reap,

According to The New York Times the photo book "Take Ivy" is “a treasure of fashion insiders,” so you must have a copy and view it with approval. Right?

I was underwhelmed with the book when I viewed it briefly. While I visited most of the Ivy colleges during that era I don't remember anything about clothing except the "no socks" look which for some reason I never really took to then or now (apologies to Thom Browne and Sid Mashburn). I can't actually remember the young Ivy gentlemen looking any different than those at other large private and state universities. Though the girls riding bicycles around the Ivies (even though they didn't then allow girls as students), I did notice. Steely Dan expounds on the topic:

Steely Dan
Hey Nineteen

Way back when in Sixty seven
I was the dandy of Gamm Chi
Sweet things from Boston so young and willing
Moved down to Scarsdale where the hell am I
Hey Nineteen
No we can't dance together
No we can't talk at all
Please take me along when you slide on down
Hey Nineteen that's 'Retha Franklin
She don't remember the Queen of Soul
It's hard times befallen the sole survivors
She thinks I'm crazy I'm just growing old
Hey Nineteen
No we got nothin' in common
No we can't talk at all
Please take me along when you slide on down

ad libbed lines
nice, sure looks good,
hm hm hmm, skate a little lower now
The Cuervo Gold
The fine Columbian
Make tonight a wonderful thing

The Cuervo Gold
The fine Columbian
Make tonight a wonderful thing
The Cuervo Gold
The fine Columbian
Make tonight a wonderful thing
We can't dance together
No we can't talk at all
Steely Dan
Way back when
In Sixty-seven
I was the dandy
Of Gamma Chi
Sweet things from Boston
So young and willing
Moved down to Scarsdale
Where the hell am I
Hey Nineteen
No we can't dance together
No we can't talk at all
Please take me along
When you slide on down

Hey Nineteen
That's 'Retha Franklin
She don't remember
The Queen of Soul
It's hard times befallen
The soul survivors
She thinks I'm crazy
But I'm just growing old

Hey Nineteen
No we got nothing in common
No we can't talk at all
Please take me along
When you slide on down

The Cuervo Gold
The fine Columbian
Make tonight a wonderful thing

No we can't dance together
No we can't talk at all

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzfwtX2kgOA

Cousin Dupree Lyrics

Artist: Steely Dan
Album: Two Against Nature

Well I've kicked around a lot since high school
I've worked a lot of nowhere gigs
From keyboard man in a rock'n ska band
To haulin' boss crude in the big rigs

Now I've come back home to plan my next move
From the comfort of my Aunt Faye's couch
When I see my little cousin Janine walk in
All I could say was ow ow ouch

CHORUS:
Honey how you've grown
Like a rose
Well we used to play
When we were three
How about a kiss for your cousin Dupree

She turned my life into a living hell
In those little tops and tight capris
I pretended to be readin' the National Probe
As I was watchin' her wax her skis

On Saturday night she walked in with her date
And backs him up against the wall
I tumbled off the couch and heard myself sing
In a voice I never knew I had before

CHORUS
I'll teach you everything I know
If you teach me how to do that dance
Life is short and quid pro quo
And what's so strange about a down-home family romance?

One night we're playin' gin by a cracklin' fire
And I figured I'd make my play
I said babe with my boyish charm and good looks
How can you stand it for one more day

She said maybe its the skeevy look in your eyes
Or that your mind has turned to applesauce
The dreary architecture of your soul
I said - but what is it exactly turns you off?

CHORUS

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxknEhmqObY

What are you doing about the many starving children of India and Africa?

New International Version (©1984)
"The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'

New Living Translation (©2007)
"And the King will say, 'I tell you the truth, when you did it to one of the least of these my brothers and sisters, you were doing it to me!'

English Standard Version (©2001)
And the King will answer them, ‘Truly, I say to you, as you did it to one of the least of these my brothers, you did it to me.’

New American Standard Bible (©1995)
"The King will answer and say to them, 'Truly I say to you, to the extent that you did it to one of these brothers of Mine, even the least of them, you did it to Me.'

International Standard Version (©2008)
The king will answer them, 'I tell you with certainty, since you did it for one of the least important of these brothers of mine, you did it for me.'

GOD'S WORD® Translation (©1995)
"The king will answer them, 'I can guarantee this truth: Whatever you did for one of my brothers or sisters, no matter how unimportant [they seemed], you did for me.'

King James Bible
And the King shall answer and say unto them, Verily I say unto you, Inasmuch as ye have done [it] unto one of the least of these my brethren, ye have done [it] unto me.

American King James Version
And the King shall answer and say to them, Truly I say to you, Inasmuch as you have done it to one of the least of these my brothers, you have done it to me.

American Standard Version
And the King shall answer and say unto them, Verily I say unto you, Inasmuch as ye did it unto one of these my brethren, even these least, ye did it unto me.

Bible in Basic English
And the King will make answer and say to them, Truly I say to you, Because you did it to the least of these my brothers, you did it to me.

Douay-Rheims Bible
And the king answering, shall say to them: Amen I say to you, as long as you did it to one of these my least brethren, you did it to me.

Darby Bible Translation
And the King answering shall say to them, Verily, I say to you, Inasmuch as ye have done it to one of the least of these my brethren, ye have done it to me.

English Revised Version
And the King shall answer and say unto them, Verily I say unto you, Inasmuch as ye did it unto one of these my brethren, even these least, ye did it unto me.

Webster's Bible Translation
And the king will answer and say to them, Verily I say to you, Inasmuch as ye have done it to one of the least of these my brethren, ye have done it to me.

Weymouth New Testament
"But the King will answer them, "'In solemn truth I tell you that in so far as you rendered such services to one of the humblest of these my brethren, you rendered them to myself.'

World English Bible
"The King will answer them, 'Most certainly I tell you, inasmuch as you did it to one of the least of these my brothers, you did it to me.'

Young's Literal Translation
And the king answering, shall say to them, Verily I say to you, Inasmuch as ye did it to one of these my brethren -- the least -- to me ye did it.

If you could, which leading man would you aspire to: Cary Grant in "North by Northwest," Steve McQueen in "The Thomas Crown Affair," Paul Newman in "Cool Hand Luke," or Fred Astaire in "Funny Face"?

Candyman
Songwriters: Aguilera, Christina; Perry, Linda;

Tarzan and Jane were swingin' on a vine
Candyman, candyman
Sippin' from a bottle of vodka double wine
Sweet sugar candyman

I met him out for dinner on a Friday night
He really got me working up an appetite
He had tattoos up and down his arm
There's nothing more dangerous than a boy with charm

He's a one stop shop, makes my panties drop
He's a sweet talkin' sugar coated candyman
A sweet talkin' sugar coated candyman, ooh, yeah

He took me to the Spider Club on Hollywood and Vine
We drank champagne and we danced all night
We shook the paparazzi for a big surprise
The gossip tonight will be tomorrow's headline

He's a one stop shop, makes my cherry pop
He's a sweet talkin' sugar coated candyman
A sweet talkin' sugar coated candyman

He's a one stop shop, makes my cherry pop
He's a sweet talkin' sugar coated candyman
A sweet talkin' sugar coated candyman, ohh yeah

Well, by now I'm getting all bothered and hot
When he kissed my mouth it really hit the spot
He had lips like sugarcane
Good things come for boys who wait

Tarzan and Jane were swingin' on a vine
Candyman, candyman
Sippin' from a bottle of vodka double wine
Candyman, candyman
Sweet sugar candyman

He's a one stop, gotcha hot, making all the panties drop
Sweet sugar candyman
He's a one stop, got me hot, making my ugh pop
Sweet sugar candyman
He's a one stop, get it while it's hot, baby don't stop
Sweet sugar

He's got those lips like sugarcane
Good things come for boys who wait

He's a one stop shop with a real big ugh
He's a sweet talkin' sugar coated candyman
A sweet talkin' sugar coated candyman
A sweet talkin' sugar coated candyman
A sweet talkin' sugar coated candyman

Candyman, candyman, candyman, candyman
Candyman, candyman, candyman, candyman

Tarzan and Jane were swingin' on a vine
Tarzan and Jane were swingin' on a vine
Sippin' from a bottle of vodka double wine
Sippin' from a bottle of vodka double wine

Jane lost her grip and down she fell
Jane lost her grip and down she fell
Squared herself away as she let out a yell
Squared herself away and let out a yell

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nu-7rPdFjvI

http://www.vevo.com/watch/christina-aguilera/candyman/USRV80700005

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

However, I'd skip the vodka double wine and champagne to save Jane from falling. Without doubt the best music video ever.

Really, wouldn't it have been better if you had kept to your silent one of the internet shtick of a ''Gimpel the Fool'' schlemiel--"I'm the type that bears it and says nothing. What's one to do? Shoulders are from God, and burdens too" (Isaac Bashevis Singer)--rather than dump all this incoherent, semi-illiterate, random, overblown, pointless babbling? When are you going to man-up, not that anybody truly cares or even notices after all.

Possibility some day I'll be worthy of Muddy Waters' mojo and become a "Mannish Boy".

Mannish Boy

Muddy Waters

Everythin', everythin', everythin's gonna be alright this mornin'
Ooh yeah, whoaw
Now when I was a young boy, at the age of five
My mother said I was, gonna be the greatest man alive
But now I'm a man, way past 21
Want you to believe me baby,
I had lot's of fun
I'm a man
I spell mmm, aaa child, nnn
That represents man
No B, O child, Y
That mean mannish boy
I'm a man
I'm a full grown man
I'm a man
I'm a natural born lovers man
I'm a man
I'm a rollin' stone
I'm a man
I'm a hoochie coochie man

Sittin' on the outside, just me and my mate
You know I'm made to move you honey,
come up two hours late
Wasn't that a man
I spell mmm, aaa child, nnn
That represents man
No B, O child, Y
That mean mannish boy
I'm a man
I'm a full grown man
Man
I'm a natural born lovers man
Man
I'm a rollin' stone
Man-child
I'm a hoochie coochie man
The line I shoot will never miss
When I make love to a woman,
she can't resist
I think I go down,
to old Kansas Stew
I'm gonna bring back my second cousin,
that little Johnny Cocheroo
All you little girls,
sittin'out at that line
I can make love to you woman,
in five minutes time
Ain't that a man
I spell mmm, aaa child, nnn
That represents man
No B, O child, Y
That mean mannish boy
Man
I'm a full grown man
Man
I'm a natural born lovers man
Man
I'm a rollin' stone
I'm a man-child
I'm a hoochie coochie man
well, well, well, well
hurry, hurry, hurry, hurry
Don't hurt me, don't hurt me child
don't hurt me, don't hurt, don't hurt me child
well, well, well, well

Yeah

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5IOou6qN1o

Which wool is finer: cashmere, camelhair, guanaco, vicuña, merino, escorial, or one plus plus best bale?

They're all darn nice, though I'm unworthy of such fine wools.

With all due disrespect, aren't you making a fetish out of fine wools? Get a grip and a life man.

Maybe.

Can't you keep your blabberpuss blog shut? It's long, boring, horrid, dour, sanctimonious, pompous, hokey, defies classification, exquisitely pointless, and equivalent to the Edsel. Aren't you scraping the bottom of the barrel for material?

Feel better now?

Know-it-all dude, what wrong with the Japanese economy?

Deflation has resulted in the growth of consumption-haters. It appears that only thing worst than the avid consumption of goods for hollowing out a society's soul and spirit, is the even more destructive anti-consumption mood in Japan that's rotting it's soul and spirit.

Gabacho, what are who doing to help the Latinos living in the El Norte, pinche puto pendejo baboso?

As in the film "Malcolm X":

Why you can't even get drugs in Harlem without the White Man's permission! You can't get prostitution in Harlem without the White Man's permission! You can't get gambling in Harlem without the White Man's permission! Every time you break the seal on that liquor bottle, that's a Government seal you're breaking!

And you can't get illegal aliens workers without the White Man's permission. It seems we'll all just have to patiently (or impatiently as the case may be) wait for the Know-Nothings to rant and rave themselves out, and then we can all come to some compromise that will make everyone equally mad.

But gracias for asking!

Mr. Policy Analyst hotshot, what is it going to take to get us out of the this Great Recession?

It'll take three things to happen: demand, demand, and more demand. When people start spending more money, and only then, will the recession be over.

What do you think of this Lily Allen's song?

Fuck You Very Much lyrics
Songwriters: Allen, Lily Rose; Kurstin, Gregory

Look inside,
Look inside your tiny mind
Now look a bit harder
Cause we're so uninspired,
so sick and tired of all the
hatred you harbor

So you say
It's not okay to be gay
Well I think you're just evil
You're just some racist who
can't tie my laces
Your point of view is medieval

Fuck you (fuck you)
Fuck you very, very much
Cause we hate what you do
And we hate your whole crew
So please don't stay in touch

Fuck you (fuck you)
Fuck you very, very much
Cause your words don't translate
And it's getting quite late
So please don't stay in touch

Do you get,
Do you get a little kick out of
being small minded?
You want to be like your father
It's approval your after
Well that's not how you find it

Do you,
Do you really enjoy living a
life that's so hateful?
Cause there's a hole where
your soul should be
Your losing control of it and
it's really distasteful

Fuck you (fuck you)

Fuck you very, very much
Cause we hate what you do
And we hate your whole crew
So please don't stay in touch

Fuck you (fuck you)
Fuck you very, very much
Cause your words don't
translate and it's getting
quite late
So please don't stay in touch

Fuck you, fuck you, fuck you
Fuck you, fuck you, fuck you
Fuck you

You say,
You think we need to go to war
Well, you're already in one
Cause it's people like you
That need to get slew
No one wants your opinion

Fuck you (fuck you)
Fuck you very, very much
Cause we hate what you do
And we hate your whole crew
So please don't stay in touch

Fuck you (fuck you)
Fuck you very, very much
Cause your words don't
translate and it's getting
quite late
So please don't stay in touch

Fuck you, fuck you, fuck you (repeat)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qg7jA-H-jMo

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

It's a bissel too much random anger, but to each his or her own.

Loosen up blabbermouth. Where's the fun with all this prissy nanny hyper-level of earnestness and self-control? If everyone acted like this "Hamlet" would be a brief, unexciting one-act play.

Yes.

When your so-call blog was put through Gobbledygook Grader, it scored a 73 (out of a 100) which means it is at the graduate level and is barely decipherable to normal humans. So what do you say about that?

Okay. Or is this answer too much gobbledygook?

What's with this fetish with splated maple and other exotic woods?

What can I say, but I loves me some rare woods.

Why waste so much time on clothing when there are more important things of concerned. Aren't you just judging a book by it's cover.

Don't be psyched-out about what can and can't be worn, or what should or shouldn't be worn. Style should not be off-putting, but bring pleasure. Anti-style is by choice not a federal mandate. We can't deny style, because we communicate visually in so many ways.

What do you think of http://fuckyeahmenswear.tumblr.com/?
Is this not the coolest thing since horse shit? The pictures are great and the poetry is to die for. It makes your piss-ant blog look like worthless dog-shit.

Where is the girls riding bicycles section?

Mr. Tavi Gevinson, or whatever you are, what's the differences between bespoke garments from tailors in Savile row, Milano, Roma, and Napoli? Compare differences and the propriety of, for instance, sleeve attachment and width, front dart, shirt-set sleeves, shoulder shape, short back balance, drape, open quarters, lapped seams, lapels, relatively short length, gorge, and other important nuances and subtleties of proper suits and jackets.

These are distinctions without important differences. The only difference I've found is the attractiveness of the woman at the suit wearer's side.

Your blog reads well. The anecdotes are occasionally amusing. There is some real emotion. The reading pace is brisk enough to fool the unwary blog reader into a suspension of disbelief at the beginning, but then the weakness of this chatty-Cathy strategy becomes apparent: you are impatient, petulant, and shallow, and glibly breeze through important fundamental and substantive decisions about proper style without slowing down to acknowledge their complexity. Some the most important questions of style--fit, propriety, tradition, etc.--you refuse to honestly consider opposing points of views of clothing styles or see the long-term, ancillary effects of your idiosyncratic views of style.

Mileage varies. Insularity to diversity and freshness can lead to sameness and be stale and stuffy. There is a need to constantly be on watch against stodginess, hubris, and boredom. One must seek clothing choices that can be energizing, and indeed be surprising at times. Being adventurous in style and design breathes freshness and light into an otherwise insular world.

Isn't sprezzatura just an excuse for being lazy? At best isn't it a labored, affected effort at looking as though you're not trying too hard? Aren't you just unsuccessfully attempting to hoodwink others that you aren't hyper-obsessed with fashion? Sprezzatura reeks of desperation and a pathetic attempt at overt attention seeking.

It can mean there are details one's just not always fussing over. Sprezzatura or nonchalance is imposed by others, not by individual. Some may call it sprezzatura, or that the dresser doesn't know what going on or otherwise clueless. However, for it to truly be sprezzatura then neither the dresser or the viewer should care. Natural sprezzatura is showing one's individual style expression of wearing clothing or accessories. It's only sprezzatura when others can't tell if ones being careless on purpose--it must be natural. What is needed is provided by Technotronic:

Technotronic
Pump Up The Jam

Yo Come On Move This
Shake That Body
Shake That Body
People dont you know, dont you know
its about time
cant you hear the jam is pumpin
while you taste the piece of mine
many different flavours
and the bass is strong
get into the hot stuff
let me pour a little on
Baby let me show you how to do dis
you ve gotta move this
youre doing fine
theres nothing to it
you gotta move this
come on and move this
shake that body for
People dont you know....
Can you feel the mellow crawling fast
drum oh baby
rhythms blast
pump it pump it pump it up
bet you cant make this once stop
youve gotta move this
youve gotta move this
shake that body ah
shake that body cool
People dont...
Pump It taken
Fingers snappin
hands club and Mamas Rappin
Talkin about cold loughin
shut up and you the one
use what you got show me
your on the floor so let me see
dont say nothing less i saw
and remember i like it raw
Baby let me show...

Pump up the jam
pump it up
why your feet are stomping?
And the jam is pumping
look at it get the crowd jumpin'
pump it up a little more
get the party goin' on the dance floor
see 'cause that's where the party's at and you fine dinning, to bad
(chours)
I want a place to say:
"get your booty on the floor tonight"
make my day
I want a place to say:
"get your booty on the floor tonight"
make my day
make my day (x4)
Yo! Pump up the jam
pump it up
why your feet are stomping?
And the jam is pumping
look at it get the crowd jumpin'
pump it up a little more
get the party goin' on the dance floor
see 'cause that's where the party's at and you fine dinning, to bad
(chours)
make my day (x5)
Yo! Pump up the jam
pump it up
pump it up
Yo! Pump it!
pump up the jam
pump it up
pump it up
Yo! Pump it
pump up the jam
pump it up
pump it up
Yo! Pump it
pump up the jam
pump it (echo)
Pump up the jam,
Pump up the jam,
Pump up the jam
pump it up
pump it,
pump it,
pump it,
Pump up the jam,
Pump up the jam,
Pump up the jam,
pump it (echo)
Pump up the jam
pump it up
why your feet are stomping?
And the jam is pumping
look at it get the crowd jumpin'
pump it up a little more
get the party goin' on the dance floor
see 'cause that's where the party's at and you fine dinning, to bad
(chours)
Pump up the jam
pump it up
pump it up
Yo! Pump it!
pump up the jam
pump it up
pump it up
Yo! Pump up the jam
pump it up
pump it up
Yo! Pump it!
pump up the jam
pump it (echo)

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

http://www.vevo.com/watch/technotronic/pump-up-the-jam/BE1278900083

How can a personal style be developed?

Style is a process of discovery and experimentation, and it helps to be passionate, fierce, and fearless. Will mistakes happen? Yes, but that's one of the ways personal style is developed. A broad spectrum of loves and dislikes are probed. A variety of patterns and silhouettes can be tried. One must be open to options. One can be a bellwether for those trying to develop their own style. Perhaps the old chestnut explains it:

It ain't the meat it's the motion
It ain't the meat it's the motion
That makes your mama wanna rock
It ain't the meat it's the motion
It's the movement it isn't the stock
Well, I got a girl that's so darn thin
There ain't much of her but bones and skin
One thing about her I can understand
She wraps all around me like a rubber band, baby
It ain't the meat it's the motion
That makes your mama wanna rock
It ain't the meat it's the motion
It's the movement it isn't the stock
Well, I want a girl who's built real fat
Kenny don't like to see 'em like that
But I like to see 'em big and tall
The bigger they come the harder they fall
It ain't the meat it's the motion
That makes your mama wanna rock
It ain't the meat it's the motion
It's the movement it isn't the stock
Well, I want someone who feels like they got to have love
Love to look at the stars above
My little baby, I want you to know
She'll bring me home all of her dough
It ain't the meat it's the motion
It ain't the meat, uhm uhm uhm
It ain't the meat, I say the action
That makes your daddy wanna rock
Bring it down one time
It ain't the meat it's the motion
It ain't the meat, I say the movement, girl
It ain't the meat, it's the action
That makes your mama wanna rock

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i28iB5MDc_M

What do you think of season-less dressing ,e.g., year around flip-flops, shorts, short-sleeve polos, etc.?

I love the changing seasons, especially cooler weather. Wool can seem stuffy at times, but if it's low-humidity weather cashmere always feels great.

What's wrong with limiting one's wardrobe to coats, white shirts, ties, balmorals, etc., and eschew all the ersatz, pseudo-causal blue-collar phoniness?

Fashion trends and fads most often flub out. However, working class clothing—blue jeans, khakis, shearling, hoodies, etc.--are restrained without causing laughing and joking or too much narcissism. Clothing inspired by the working class is most often elegant and sensual--arising from of usefulness and custom rather than artistic desires. It's the working class that impacted the ways in which the upper strata presented themselves. It's blue-collar dress that sparks much style. Just look at the wide spread of working class style homages in men's clothing--plaid shirts, fisherman sweaters, Balfour jackets, and workman boots done up in finest leathers, wools and cashmere, and faux aged leather bomber jackets absorbing the cultural mélange and societal energy from thence these clothes were formed. Basic to the contemporary attire, blue jeans have a blue-collar genesis are now lofted by all and sundry. Though wearing an article of clothing simulating the working class doesn’t let someone borrow an air of integrity and humbleness--one can contentedly and unashamedly be living the good life. Working class clothing does have an honesty and gravity lacking in high style clothing. The “Of Mice and Men” stylishness exemplified by washed out denim and threadbare cotton as a declaration of matter-of-fact propriety and hard times sympathy. Euro-trash labels, e.g., Brunello Cucinelli, are keen on the modest but skilled artisans who generate their garments from quaint hamlets with 1,000 plus years of history of disadvantages. This is because everyone knows that the underprivileged and/or the rustic and/or the unrefined must have a healthier grip on reality and genuineness, so one can hope to capture a small piece of the working class spirit and essence. But one has not necessarily improved one’s character.

Why the entire unhealthy obsession in Eurotrash clothing and fashion that imply airs to standing above your grade with ugly, expensive attempts at sophistication? What wrong with minimalist and anonymous clothing? You are only actually fascinated in acquiring a miscellaneous and disjointed aggregate of statement bits and pieces, when you could otherwise put together concrete and flexible attire from the very beginning. You just think you know what you're blogging about when you really don't.

With all due respect this is just more groupthink. Minimalist and Conservative Business Clothing will also be cycled through the fashion mill along with all other styles. Personal style can and should have a degree of presence and individuality. There is more than one way to elegant style. There can be a risk if one combines clothing genres, because observers might not be sure what they're perceiving. Variety and singularity in wardrobe choices are a virtue. I don’t look for conformist style qualifications and would rather discover unfamiliar territory, sighting an untried garment. I’m looking for a general impression, though details are often the deciding factor. The clothing cognoscenti aren’t the all, end-all of style. I’m fond of what I like — it’s only one view. In a certain way, if one tries wearing something a tad bit different, it can be most rewarding. I ain’t claiming to be anything that I’m not.

How important is the "feel" of your clothing?

If "feel" means the texture and hand of the fabrics, then it's my highest priority. Fine wools, cashmere, cotton linen, silk, etc. are the pièce de résistance of clothing. If "feel" means comfortable clothing, then I'm all for it. However, if "feel" refers to a hyper-concern and obsession with how a garment's fit "feels" to the individual, then it becomes a question of idiosyncratic and unique individual comfort that borders on a kind of neurotic narcissism.

What's the best sad song people have no awareness of and have never heard?

Doug Stone
I'D Be Better Off (In A Pine Box)

I said the night you left me,
Nothin' worse could ever happen,
But seeing you with someone else proved that I was wrong.
And when your eyes met mine,
I knew that you were gone forever,
Along with all the reasons , I had for hanging on.
I'd be better off in a pine box,
On a slow train back to Georgia,
Or in the grey walls of a prison doing time.
I think I'd rather die,
And go to hell and face the devil,
Than to lie here with you and him together on my mind.

I always thought that someday,
We might get back together.
I just thought you needed time to spread your wings and fly.
But when I saw the lovin' way,
You held onto each other,
It was all that I could do, not to break right down and cry.

I'd be better off in a pine box,
On a slow train back to Georgia,
Or in the grey walls of a prison doing time.
I think I'd rather die,
And go to hell and face the devil,
Than to lie here with you and him together on my mind.

Girl I'd be better off in a pine box,
On a slow train back from Georgia,
Or in the grey walls of a prison doing time.
I think I'd rather die,
And go to hell and face the devil,
Than to lie here with you and him together on my mind.

I can't lie here with you and him together on my mind

I said the night you left me,
Nothin' worse could ever happen,
But seeing you with someone else proved that I was wrong.
And when your eyes met mine,
I knew that you were gone forever,
Along with all the reasons , I had for hanging on.
I'd be better off in a pine box,
On a slow train back to Georgia,
Or in the grey walls of a prison doing time.
I think I'd rather die,
And go to hell and face the devil,
Than to lie here with you and him together on my mind.
I always thought that someday,
We might get back together.
I just thought you needed time to spread your wings and fly.
But when I saw the lovin' way,
You held onto each other,
It was all that I could do, not to break right down and cry.
I'd be better off in a pine box,
On a slow train back to Georgia,
Or in the grey walls of a prison doing time.
I think I'd rather die,
And go to hell and face the devil,
Than to lie here with you and him together on my mind.
Girl I'd be better off in a pine box,
On a slow train back from Georgia,
Or in the grey walls of a prison doing time.
I think I'd rather die,
And go to hell and face the devil,
Than to lie here with you and him together on my mind.
I can't lie here with you and him together on my mind.

http://youtu.be/PTQ7_K5UwKQ

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

How often do you have your clothes dry cleaned?

Just say no to dry cleaning. One will bless their clothing and the environment both. After wearing, hang them to air out, then apply some steam. Have them spot cleaned and pressed if necessary. I do like a freshly laundered, starched shirt daily, and find that a shirt just gets better with multiple washings.

What is your favorite color?

Grey is, in all its various shades, and in most all fabrics and textures. Too much grey, is not enough grey.

You are going to adopt the superior virtues of the Oneshoe, Onepant, etc. ethic, aren't you?

Courtesy of the military, I practiced for years the Oneshoe, Onepant, Oneboot, Oneshirt, Onebelt, etc., and again monkish penury while I was in college. In light of these years long experiences, I think I'm about to break right down and cry: I'd rather be in a pinebox on a slow train back to Georgia, and go to hell and face the devil, than stand here in the grey Onepants thingy weighting on my fragile psyche (all apologies to Doug Stone).

Please tell me when "Beavis and Butt-Head" will return to MTV?

I too awaiedt with bated and bad breath their return. They came and are gone now.

Unfortunately, Alexa Chung's show is only available in merry olde England. We can't have everything, can we?

Why is your poor miserable worthless soul sometimes the piñata of the world-wide-web?

As a gabacho it just seems that many of lurkers' jugheads are cracked after the blindfolded ranter with the Louisville Slugger continues to swing, as the covey of lurkers spread and fight for the exploded candy causing what left of their brains to be damaged resulting in unemployment, low scores on "Jeopardy" and dependence on food stamps. Poster after poster smacks the piñata, trying to crack it and get at the desirable items inside. Ain't this a coolest metaphor for playerhate. In some ways one is reminded of:

Tubthumping

Chumbawamba

We'll be singing
When we're winning
We'll be singing
I get knocked down
But I get up again
You're never going to keep me down
Pissing the night away
He drinks a whisky drink
He drinks a vodka drink
He drinks a lager drink
He drinks a cider drink
He sings the songs that remind him
Of the good times
He sings the songs that remind him
Of the better times
"Oh Danny Boy
Danny Boy..."
I get knocked down
But i get up again
You're never Goin to keep me down
Pissing the night away
He drinks a whisky drink
He drinks a vodka drink
He drinks a lager drink
He drinks a cider drink
He sings the songs that remind him
Of the good times
He sings the songs that remind him
Of the better times
"Don't cry for me
Next door neighbour..."
I get knocked down
But I get up again
You're never going to keep me down
We'll be singing
When we're wining
We'll be singing

NOTE: The song lyrics above are provided for educational use only. No infringement of copyright is implied or intended.

http://www.vevo.com/watch/chumbawamba/tubthumping/USUV30500013

You seem to have gone ape-shit over inane, crappy, irrelevant, pointless videos. How many more are you wanting to pester us with and continue to dump on us?

Jennifer Lopez - I'm Glad

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUe26fHjHUk

NEW YORK,NEW YORK- FRANK SINATRA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aqlJl1LfDP4

Ella Fitzgerald - It Don't Mean a thing (If it ain't got that swing)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lMFIejZgJSM

\http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Qnz-BdJyK0

D-Mob featuring Cathy Dennis - C'Mon And Get My Love

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4Pcidyhx5k

Christina Perri -- Jar of Heart

http://youtu.be/8v_4O44sfjM

Nelly Furtado -- Promiscuous

http://www.vevo.com/watch/nelly-furtado/promiscuous-live/USUV70602503

Nelly Furtado Maneater

http://www.vevo.com/watch/nelly-furtado/maneater/USUV70705894

Madonna - Take A Bow

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=208rVspxK_g

Legs - ZZ Top

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fo8fWrW_QdM

Dwight Yoakam - The Heart that You Own

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KSSvCVplIE

Madonna - I Love New York

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hINZucVvZTY

Brian Setzer - Jump Jive N' Wail

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjNgkl5tuBc

On Eagles Wings - Dorothy Benham

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvY-AuaNezE

Reba McEntire--Rumor Has It

http://www.vevo.com/watch/reba-mcentire/rumor-has-it/USUV70601795

Joan Jett and the Blackhearts - Tush

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wa81LzGCgzU

Someday Soon- Patty Loveless and Friends

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgwwy1rfe8g

ZZ Top - TV Dinners

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1nMC6kLOYA

Estelle - American Boy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S34_bcSPBe4

Frank Sinatra-Anything Goes

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QNxUQStW40

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iVsD0rltRr8

Natalie Portman Uncensored Rap

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qN2C7qkYQdE

Black Swan • Damn I Wish I Was Your Lover • Sophie B. Hawkins

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Z7QGWyzXX4&feature=youtu.be

GLee Cast - Last Christmas

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q6GUotw0Big

99 PROBLEMS

Even though Gwyneth Paltrow's then 3 year old son Moses declared it to be his favorite song, I still like it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwoM5fLITfk

DJ Quik - Can't Fuck Wit a N

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1F4PbKiI9Yo

Spice 1 - N Gots No Heart

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HxoTZDetFw

Etta James You Can Leave Your Hat On

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pO5sE-38MpA

Katy Perry - Teenage Dream

http://www.vevo.com/watch/katy-perry/teenage-dream-live-on-letterman/TIVEV1049716

Scala - Creep

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYIQGAUkpfs

'Call Your Girlfriend' Robyn/ Erato cover by Lennon & Maisy Stella

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_aJHJdCHAo

Amanda Seyfried "L'll Red Riding Hood"

http://youtu.be/M-NKbxZ983I

The Rolling Stones & Taylor Swift - As Tears Go By - Live in Chicago

http://youtu.be/O52TbIbCEKo

K. T. Oslin Wall of Tears

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IyDZR4aO7u4

Lea Michele: Candie's Commercial

http://youtu.be/19bQOoc9hY0

Britney Spears - ...Baby One More Time

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-u5WLJ9Yk4

WAKE ME UP BEFORE YOU GO GO

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBj0QKgSCKw

Smash Clip (Would I Lie to You)

http://youtu.be/lA3xcq6-xlc

The Bird and the Bee - Rich Girl

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ETmcFOCk3YA

Taylor Swift - I Knew You Were Trouble

http://youtu.be/xS9YaQcxT7s

Timbaland - The Way I Are

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5rLz5AZBIA

Bruce Springsteen - I'm On Fire

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrpXArn3hII

Julianne Moore - Short Cuts

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZIkYEclrLM

Baby Got Back

http://www.wetpaint.com/glee/video/watch-adam-sings-baby-got-back-to-kurt-in-glee-season-4-episode-11-sadie-hawkins-video?utm_source=facebook.com&utm_medium=WaPo-Trove&utm_campaign=social

How difficult is it to get a bespoke billfold?

The getting is the easy part, the keeping is the hard part. I talked with April in Paris and Fleming about a bespoke billfold for my father-in-law, per instructions of his most dutiful daughter. He had this totally decrepit billfold for 70 years that he must have paid all of 25 cents for, and it looked to be made of cardboard. Fleming agreed to replicate it in fine leather for about $200. My wife gave it to him for his birthday and he was on cloud-nine over it. He lost the billfold and it contains that same day. ["Last Christmas I gave you my heart,/But the very next day,/ You gave it away."] A month latter he received by mail an unmarked brown envelop with his driver's license and credit cards--no cash or billfold however. As I said, it was a very nice billfold.

What the 411 on the old camelhair overcoat that appears to be older than sin?

Previous owner:
Meeks, Carroll L. V. (Carroll Louis Vanderslice), 1907-1966
"Yale will build a new arts library and a history of art building on an empty lot where Gentree’s Clothing once stood."
Architectural historian of XIXth century at Yale University.
Biography: Kleinbauer, W. Eugene. Research Guide to the History of Western Art. Sources of Information in the Humanities, no. 2. Chicago: American Library Association, 1982, p. 73; Kleinbauer, W. Eugene. Modern Perspectives in Western Art History: An Anthology of 20th-Century Writings on the Visual Arts. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston, 1971, pp. 42, 51 mentioned, 67 cited.
Bibliography: The Railroad Station: An Architectural History. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1956; Italian Architecture: 1750-1914. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1966.

Help me and explain why can't white folks dance?

If you have the intestinal fortitude to know why, then please view this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsPwjU_H4Os

Compare and contrast American, British, Italian, Japanese, etc. styles.

Individuals need to develop and refine their own unique personal style by editing all the available styles.

Where do you fit concerning the stuff that white folks like? Cf. http://stuffwhitepeoplelike.com/

Let's see. I don't own or use any Apple products, no microbrews, no single malts, no gourmet coffee, no indie music, don't listen to David Sedaris, don't read the paper Sunday NYT (but do read it on the web), don't shop at the food coop, don't get Sarah Silverman or Wes Anderson, own several TVs, don't watch classic films, etc.

Man up dog breath, what are the stuff of white folks that you like?

Okay, here goes: sea salt, black music that black folks don't listen to anymore, pea coats, classical music, facebook, girls with bangs, San Francisco, bottles of water, dogs, vintage, public radio, Asian girls--that's about it.

What do internet forums clothing gentlemen like?

Bespoke clothing, English shoes, Allen Edmond and Alden shoes, close fitting cloths, groupthink, itchy-scratchy wool, brown shoes, grandpa shoes, flame wars, snark, Savile Row fashion, floating canvas lined coats, proper attire, matching clothes, Conservative Business Dress, player hate, light suit padding, buying at deep discount, personality cult, cufflinks, pocket squares, tweeds, shell cordovan shoes, smiley icons, etc.

What are you wearing today?

Wednesday, November 01, 2006

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About Me

Blog Archive

Frequently Asked Questions

sprezzatura

Cousin Dupree Lyrics

NEW YORK,NEW YORK- FRANK SINATRA

Ella Fitzgerald - It Don't Mean a thing (If it ain't got that swing)

D-Mob featuring Cathy Dennis - C'Mon And Get My Love

Nelly Furtado Maneater

Madonna - Take A Bow

Legs - ZZ Top

Dwight Yoakam - The Heart that You Own

Madonna - I Love New York

Brian Setzer - Jump Jive N' Wail

On Eagles Wings - Dorothy Benham

Reba McEntire--Rumor Has It

Joan Jett and the Blackhearts - Tush

Someday Soon- Patty Loveless and Friends

ZZ Top - TV Dinners

Estelle - American Boy

Frank Sinatra-Anything Goes

Natalie Portman Uncensored Rap

Black Swan • Damn I Wish I Was Your Lover • Sophie B. Hawkins

GLee Cast - Last Christmas

99 PROBLEMS

DJ Quik - Can't Fuck Wit a N

Spice 1 - N Gots No Heart

Etta James You Can Leave Your Hat On

Katy Perry - Teenage Dream

Scala - Creep

'Call Your Girlfriend' Robyn/ Erato cover by Lennon & Maisy Stella

Amanda Seyfried "L'll Red Riding Hood"

The Rolling Stones & Taylor Swift - As Tears Go By - Live in Chicago

Lea Michele: Candie's Commercial

Britney Spears - ...Baby One More Time

WAKE ME UP BEFORE YOU GO GO

Smash Clip (Would I Lie to You)

The Bird and the Bee - Rich Girl

Taylor Swift - I Knew You Were Trouble

Timbaland - The Way I Are

Bruce Springsteen - I'm On Fire

Baby Got Back

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